The fashion trends for autumn and winter - and how to wear them

Tag : hybrid cashmere

For every trend this season, there is an antidote. Clean lines -and ruffles. Dark shades - and pinks, yellows, camels andperiwinkles. Curved, Fifties-coutureinspired silhouettes - andstraight lines. On the whole they don't merely coexist, they seemto mesh seamlessly with one another. What unites them is anemphasis on shape and shapeliness after several seasons of smocks.This is geometry as fun.
Cocoon
A progression from puffballs and bell-shaped sleeves, the cocoondistils the curves of the past few years into a dramatic yetpared-down statement.
On the catwalk it had most impact in dresses and coats. In reallife, a jacket that ends on or just below the waist will be easierto carry off on all but those with supermodel proportions, and havejust as strong an effect.
Long-term investment potential: This might have all the hallmarksof a one-season trend but, as we have seen over the past few years,designers tend to stick with strong shapes for several seasons,refining them as they go. Buy into this one early (in a neutralcolour) and you could be wearing it for a long time to come.Alternatively, buy it in a vibrant colour for maximum visibility,wear it all winter, lay it to rest and bring it out of retirementin a year or two.
Wear with: Straight 7/8-length trousers or slim skirts and blockyshoes.
Military
There are enough gloomy forecasts around, so maybe it's best not toread anything too profound into the return of military after arelatively short interval (in some women's style vernacular thelanguage of engagement never went away). Let's just take it as readthat the enduring appeal of military-style tailoring (for we arenot talking of combat details or camouflage prints here) lies inits flattering practicality.
The pugilistic greatcoat may be the most obvious place toincorporate military touches - serried rows of buttons, epaulettes,piping, etc - and that's precisely where some designers did start.But who needs the obvious? A cute knit with brass buttons (tryJoseph) or a neat, endlessly useful little waistcoat (Camilla andMarc on netaporter.com) is more interesting.
Long-term investment potential: Endless. Military has become a bonafide classic.
Wear with: Strong but simple accessories, a poloneck, chunky goldjewellery, patent shoes. Otherwise, team with a dress (note: itshould be sleeveless - it's the way forward with this winter'sdresses).
Trousers
There are a lot of them about: straightlegged, curved-legged,wide-legged, drainpipes, high-waisted. The common denominator: theyall end at the ankle (the 7/8th-length), the better to show off ahigh heel with a concealed platform or a cut-away shoe-boot. Theycertainly solve the dilemma of what to wear if you can't face thiswinter's calf-length skirts.
Long-term investment potential: Excellent. Trousers haven't beenthis fashionable for years - and once we familiarise ourselves withhow easy they make life, we'll be sticking with them for a while tocome.
Wear with: Jackets and knits with peplums for a masculine/femininetake - Joseph has a good selection. The higher the waist, theneater and shorter the jacket needs to be. Alternatively, team themwith a ruffled shirt or kimono/half-sleeved top, or with one of thenew tunic dresses for a new take on the trouser suit.
Colour with colour
Instead of sticking with the tried-and-tested formula of mixingcolour with black, try experimenting with a more artistic approach.Take inspiration from Marni's acid yellow, dusky pink, camel andperiwinkle combination, or put forest green with berry and mustard.Navy is as much a staple as black.
Shapes have become more brutally architectural - so colour not onlyworks, it improves the overall effect.
Long-term investment potential: Infinite. Colours that suit youstay in style.
Wear with: Grey. Yes, even though it's a neutral, it's allowed inthe mix. There's a lot of it around again. Note the sleevelesswaistcoat-coat: winter 2008's new hybrid.
Moderate minimalism
Lines are cleaner, tailoring is back and sharper, more linear;buttons and fastenings are absent or concealed - but this is not astraight replay of Nineties minimalism. For one thing, shapes aremore extravagant and clothes are cut to fold and slouch gracefullyabout the body rather than stretch across it like taut tubes.Clever layering - a sleeveless cape-coat over a cropped, collarlessjacket over a longer jumper over a skirt or a pair of trousers -creates an interesting statement in the way that patterns did ayear ago.
Long-term investment potential: Sound. Individually, these arepieces that won't date and can be incorporated into other looks.
Wear with: Flamboyance. Whereas Nineties minimalism was severe andabstemious, this incarnation requires chunky shoes and, onoccasions, even chunkier - sometimes baroque - jewellery. If you'rewearing a simple poloneck, try it with wide trousers and hugechandelier earrings for a look that is understated yet strong.
Mellow drama
The flip side to moderate minimalism is this season's focus ontartans, checks, sequins, tweeds, Gothic influences, peplumedjackets, lace, shaggy coats and gilet-coats, more jewellery than wehave seen since Ivana Trump first opened her jewellery box on theQVC channel, and even ruffles - although these are mainly reservedfor shirts. For maximalists, these components can be mixed andmatched to weave whimsical stories about British heritage orBohemia. For those with latent minimalist tendencies, strictediting is called for.
Long-term investment potential: Chose pieces that you love - theseare keepers, especially pieces with interesting textures and thegorgeous ruffled chiffon shirts (see Alexander McQueen, Marni,Alberta Ferretti or Jigsaw).
Wear with: Individuality. Either aim for a fashionista pile-up orbuy one piece to rev up a pared-down approach.
Checklist: Autumn/Winter 2008
1. High-waisted, 7/8th-length trousers. Try: Whistles.
2. Cropped jacket or blazer. Before buying, try it on with a pairof the above. You'll find that what complemented hipsters may notwork with the new geometry. Try: Jigsaw.
3. Military or wrap coat or one with slit short sleeves forlayering. Try: French Connection.
4. Concealed platform shoes or ankle boots - we're over bondage -and a pair of flats. Try: Office and Kurt Geiger.
5. Polonecks and other fine knits for layering and tucking intohigh waists. Try: Pure Cashmere and Hoss Intropia.
6. A leather jacket - biker style. Wear it with classic, simplepieces for extra edge. Try:Topshop.
7. A rococo-style necklace. Try: Mikey.
8. A narrow belt to thread through the loops of those high-waistedtrousers. Try: Gap.
9. Longer-length skirts - either pencil-shaped or slightly gatheredat the waist are the newest. If you can't bear calf orankle-length, don't worry, knee-length refuses to die and there areeven some minis. Try: Zara.
10. A fitted or semi-fitted sleeveless dress: this winter'ssophisticated antidote to the put-it-away or give-it-away smockdress. Try: M&S Limited and Jigsaw.