The medium-weightviscose jersey and silk

Tag : Dyed Viscose


When people ask me what is the attraction of Richard Lewis , I tell them it is the understated simplicity and feminine appealof his designs. His are sophisticated clothes, yet can be wornanywhere and they will never offend because they are not aboutimpressing others with power and money the way so many designerclothes of today are. Richard Lewis is a designer who clearly lovesthe female form. He makes a woman look all woman.

Richard's clothes are ideal for the woman who has a busy sociallife, for the woman who travels a lot and has many types of socialengagements, the young woman who wants to make a statement as toher own beauty and worth by dressing simply and dramatically. Amother of the groom who wants to stand proud on the day thatanother woman officially takes her son from her.

These are the kind of women who go to Richard Lewis. He has a loyalfollowing of mothers and daughters spanning 30 years. He has beentold that, in some wardrobes, his clothes from back then are stilldoing the business!

So it makes complete sense that at this year's inaugural Motorola Dublin Fashion Week (MDFW) industry awards, Richard is being given theLifetime's Achievement Award. It not only is his due, but when Ibroke the news to him, he was genuinely amazed and then delighted.

It has been only a year and half since Richard suddenly lost hislife partner, Jim. Despite the very obvious devastation Richardfeels, he has continued to produce collections. This he attributesto the great support he has received from neighbours such as Bernie Keogh , friends and colleagues.

"I don't remember last year. I don't know how I created acollection. All I can tell you is the staff in the workroom havebeen great. Jackie has been with me for 30 years and she just goton with things. Jim used to do the shows and PR woman Mary [Quilty]has helped me with that... I have been amazed by how many peoplestepped in to help me. Really amazed."

Looking at Richard now, I am glad to report that I think he isgetting through it. I could see the old mischievous look in hiseyes again. He and Jim always loved a good laugh and when I visitedRichard's studio, I always came out smiling.

We discussed Terry Keane 's recent passing. Terry first wrote about Richard when he was astudent at the Grafton Academy in 1965. "She was always very supportive of me, very loyal," hetold me.

Loyalty is something that this quiet, humble man always inspires. Alot of that comes from the fact that what you see in Richard Lewisis what you get. No artifice, no dissembling. When I was a lowlyfashion stylist (not a role treated with much respect in Ireland up until recently), Richard and Jim treated me as an equal andwelcomed me through their doors.

Richard Lewis's collections have often been described asclassically elegant and they are. But there is always somethinguniquely sexy about them, too. 'I advise clients to wearhead-to-toe colour. I think it is more flattering, slimming,elegant," he told me.

We joked about his own personal monochromatic dress code of blacksuit, white shirt. "I don't have much interest in my own clothes. Isuppose I am lazy about clothes -- 'the cobbler's children areseldom shod' and all that," and he laughs wryly.

Richard sources his fabrics from France , Italy and America . Every season he decides his colour palette and has all hisfabrics dyed in those colours to ensure full co-ordination. He usessuperfine wool crepe, bobble-effect wool jersey, medium-weightviscose jersey and silk. His wool crepe and jerseys are famous fortheir travelability -- they emerge virtually unscathed from asuitcase and if they are creased, an hour on a hanger will rectifythe problem!

This season he is playing with subtle lurex, giving a shimmer tosome garments, and textured fabrics, one of which is a suede effectthat looks really good on. This season, Richard's colours aredramatic in their intensity -- scarlet, purple, electric blue,kingfisher and charcoal. His silhouette is curvaceous, due to theclever (and flattering) use of batwing sleeves and cinched-inwaists assisted by his trademark wide obi belts.

"I concentrated on colours particularly and the clients went forthe colours too. Thank God!" he said.

I adore his dramatic colours and feel they will be much needed inthe winter months to come. He is on the mark with it, too, as jewelcolours are a hugely important new direction next autumn. As tofavourite pieces in this collection -- undoubtedly hisfire-engine-red trench coat. No woman could be ignored dressed inthat!

"I don't normally do coats like the trench but I just got a notionto do it and everyone really loved it." Though he has a signaturelook, one can never dismiss Richard Lewis as not having somethingnew to look at. He always has something worth seeing, worthexploring, worth remembering -- most especially feminine beauty.