Funkier than thou

Fitzroy has become one of Melbourne's most eclectic areas, thanksto the Brunswick Street artery of cool that teems with so manyniche boutiques, perfect cafes and bespoke shops it's almostoverwhelming.
Running off Brunswick is Gertrude Street - which, dare I say it, iseven cooler.
If you think of Brunswick as Broadway and its cool sibling SmithStreet as off-Broadway, this is off-off Broadway. That is to say,it's even edgier and more idiosyncratic.
Since gentrification began about five years ago, shops sellingexquisite - and expensive - clothes and furniture have opened. Theysit right in among housing commission estates, a methadone clinicand soup kitchen in an area that was once 1920s gangster SquizzyTaylor's stamping ground.
This diversity and history makes Gertrude Street such an intriguingstrip.
Here are just some of the gems you can stumble across.
Fashion
Former Sydneysider Nicole Jenkins, who runs Circa Vintage Clothingat No. 102, is one of Gertrude Street's new guard. She moved infour years ago because, she says "rent was cheaper thanBrunswick or Smith streets". Jenkins admits gentrification hasseen rents rise but says the area is still "very edgy".
"I think it will retain its character," she says. Sheloves the street's laid-back, bohemian vibe. Jenkins, a costumedesigner, cleans and restores the clothing she gets from privatecollectors, mostly from the '40s and '50s. At the moment, she'sworking on a royal blue Schiaparelli gown from the 1930s and a1920s Chanel dress.
Whether you're looking for a vintage wedding dress or fur stole,you can find it here -at prices generally cheaper than in anequivalent shop in Sydney. Another must for retro-hounds is CurveVintage clothing at No. 158, one of the original Gertrude Streetshops packed with treasures of yesteryear.
For lovers of the bohemian look, Vixen at No. 163 has gorgeousscreen-printed clothing by local textile artist Georgia Chapman.Think layered and floaty dresses, wraps and homewares in rich,jewel-coloured silk, velvet and georgette satin. Bring your creditcard, however, as a wrap can cost almost $A1000 ($NZ1250).
Also blurring the boundaries between art and fashion is Spacecraft,at No. 225, the cult fashion and homewares shop of textile designerStewart Russell. Here you can get Japanese-inspired dresses,cushions and paintings.
Shop Sui by Sylvia Tai at No. 227 has funky printed T-shirts youwon't see on anyone else's back, while Little Salon at No. 71 is asmall but perfectly formed boutique selling designer scarves,handbags and more.
Food
Melbourne's best Italian pizzeria is not on Lygon Street. There areno red-and-white checked tablecloths or Ferrari posters, just darkwood, marble-topped tables - and authentic wood-fired pizzas withminimalist toppings. It's Ladro, at No. 224a, a slick diner thathas held tightly to its one hat in The Age Good Food Guide.
Just come early or you've got no chance of getting a table. Anotherdarling of Melbourne foodies is the Gertrude St Enoteca at No. 229.Started by slow food proponent Brigitte Hafner, it is part winebar, part cafe - and everything that Clover Moore is trying toencourage in Sydney.
Tables are surrounded by shelves of interesting bottles of wine -you can get a French Pouilly-Fume or artisan cognac, a coffee or anantipasto platter. Jars of pickles and olives line the window and asign proudly declares the Enoteca is a "GM Free Zone". Infact, it's more a philosophy than a shop.
The Builders Arms pub on the corner does both reconstructed pubgrub and Middle-Eastern specialities. The menu ranges from suchAnglo staples as corned beef and bread and butter pud to Greekskordalia and tagines.
And don't be fooled by the traditional yellow-tiled exterior -inside, think disco balls and not a pokie in sight. Dante'srestaurant and wine bar at No. 150 is a bit of a boho institutionand is a great place to go for tapas and a drink.
Also worth mentioning is Fatto A Mano organic bakery at No. 228,which apart from a variety of breads and rolls, sells irresistiblypuffy Italian sugar doughnuts.
Art
It has to be remembered that the art galleries in Gertrude Streetare what started to draw fashionable and creative types into itsorbit in the first place. At No. 200 is Gertrude Contemporary ArtSpaces, a collection of galleries and studios started in 1983. TheDiane Tanzer Gallery at No. 108 also started in the 1980s and isdedicated to exhibiting innovative artists. Also see SeventhGallery at No. 155, which has two galleries rotating severalexhibitions each month.
Books
Artisan Books at No. 159 is crammed with unusual literary finds.Here, you can find tomes on everything from crop circles to bodyart.
Title at No. 183 is a new shop staffed by musos, stocking raremusic and films. If you need an obscure piece of vinyl, look nofurther. Some of the items on display included a vinyl soundtrackof the film Lolita, a collector's edition DVD of Zatoichi and theFritz The Cat series.
The standout bookshop here is Books for Cooks at No. 233,Australia's largest seller of cookbooks. There are books that dateback to the 18th century, a foreign language section and of coursethe latest titles from top cookbook authors around the globe (theday I pass, Stephane Reynaud's Terrine was featured).
Owner Tim White, whose wife is a trained chef, explains why he setup shop in Gertrude Street: "There's no chain stores here andGod forbid there ever should be. It's bohemian, eclectic. That'swhat makes Fitzroy so wonderful, this rich tapestry."
And the plain quirky...
The oldest shop on the street, at No. 206, is Harry Evans &Sons, a billiard table emporium dating back to 1895. There is ashowroom and pool and snooker fiends will love to have a gander andperhaps splurge on a new cue. Another of the original shops is RoseChong at No. 218, a colourful costume hire outlet.
And next to the Arcadia Cafe at No. 191 is an authentic 1950sbarber shop complete with candy striped poles. Owner ArthurKoniaras has kept the original barber chairs.
It's like a living museum, though Koniaras is one Gertrude Streetresident not happy about the pace of change.
"The good days are gone forever," he says."Everybody used to get a decent shave, get dressed up and godancing. Now people don't know how to dance. Women don't getdressed up nice. A time will come when there are no more barbers.It's all unisex."
HINT
Melbourne operates on more of a European rhythm, which means a slowstart to the morning. Most shops in Gertrude Street are closeduntil 11am or noon. So do yourself a favour and have big sleep-inand a hearty Melbourne breakfast before heading here.