In Sudan tob trends, the 'Hummer' may be the new 'Ocampo'

Tag : Chiffon Fabric

Many have heard about the mysterious Ocampo, but few have seen itand fewer still have got their hands on one.
Traders were quick to cash in on the controversy when InternationalCriminal Court chief prosecutor Luis Moreno-Ocampo in July askedfor an arrest warrant for President Omar al-Beshir for alleged warcrimes in Darfur.
His announcement sparked outrage in Sudan, with supporters ofBeshir and his National Congress Party taking to the streetsshouting "Death to Ocampo!" -- albeit in nothing like the numberspredicted by frenzied observers.
Two months later, the Argentine-born lawyer's name has been linkedto the glittering, sequin-encrusted concoctions of floating chiffonwhich make up the colourful sari-like dresses, or tobs, traditionalin the desert country.
Along with other merchandise, tobs have long been named -- bycustomers or merchants -- as marketing gimmicks, after politicalevents, personalities, singers, musicians and, in one case, atelecoms company.
Even mentioning the ICC prosecutor's name is rumoured to be fraughtwith danger, however. One local media report, impossible toconfirm, said a bus driver was arrested for having a sign saying"Ocampo is coming."
But the forbidden always has an illicit thrill, and wilyshopkeepers are taking advantage of the prosecutor's notoriety astrend-setting Sudanese fashionistas queue up to make hushedrequests for the beautiful garments.
"I'd buy one. I've heard it's a really beautiful design. Silk,isn't it?" student Razaz Munir, 24, asked from the back seat of acar beside her younger sister as they headed for the Libya marketin Khartoum's twin city of Omdurman.
"I've never actually seen it but I've heard about it from the othergirls. I'd choose it because of the design, if I like it. Notbecause of its name. Anyway, it's just a person so what does itmatter?"
Tobs are made from several metres (yards) of cotton, silk orchiffon wound round the body, with the most expensive coming fromSwitzerland and the cheapest made in India.
Previous styles of tob have included the Naivasha, named after theKenyan town where negotiations were held to end Sudan's bitternorth-south civil war.
Munir's keen sartorial sense has also led her to buy Salva Kiirsandals -- Kiir is vice president and leader of the former warringsouth -- and a Shanghai skirt, named after the booming city inSudan's closest foreign ally, China.
"Merchants give them these names in order to sell theirmerchandise. I also bought a perfume called Sahhaf, after theformer Iraqi information minister," she said.
Mohammed Said al-Sahhaf, nicknamed Comical Ali in the West, shot tofame for his enthusiastically upbeat assessments of the Iraqi wareffort during the 2003 US-led invasion, despite the Americans'rapid capture of Baghdad.
Ramadan, the month of Muslim fasting, brings much of Sudan'sscorching capital to a standstill, apart from the mad traffic dashas famished drivers rush home at dusk for mealtime.
But Ramadan is also prime shopping season, when women dig deep tolook their best for the family evening meal and the Eid al-Fitrfeast at the end of the month.
The Ocampo tob has been the subject of several stories in theArabic media -- but despite its reported popularity, actuallyfinding one proved impossible.
Some traders said a consignment was on order from Dubai, whileothers said they refused to stock it.
Munir was annoyed that a tour of Libya market with an AFPjournalist failed to find a single shopkeeper who admitted tohaving heard of the Ocampo tob.
"If I'd been alone, they would have told me everything. They'refrightened because this tob is available. Everybody knows it," shesaid quietly, once back in the car.
Tradesmen said the Burj al-Fateh -- named after the new luxuryhotel gracing the banks of the Nile -- was the newest and mostpopular garment.
Shopkeepers were more positive in the stores of Khartoum North andthe Khartoum Two suburb, with at least four saying women had askedwhether the Ocampo was in stock and what it looked like.
"I've ordered a large quantity of Ocampo tobs because it's thelatest thing," beamed Abdul Nasr al-Siir, 34, from behind hiscounter.
"Yes, definitely people have come in to ask about it," he added,getting out four metres of red chiffon called Hummer.
This fabric is named after the flashy US-made vehicle and canretail for up to 300 dollars (210 euros) a tob. Siir is prettyconfident that the Hummer will be the new Ocampo.
Not everyone thinks giving clothes such controversial names is agood idea.
"If you call a tob Ocampo you'll go to jail!" a man shouted fromthe depths of one store.
"No tob called Ocampo will ever come into my shop. If Ocampo isavailable in shoes I'll buy them instead," said Tilal al-Nur in anod towards the low regard for anything to do with the soles of thefeet.