Lots of color in spring collections (Today)

Tag : Organza Fabric

NEW YORK -- Given the restraint of the collections for this falland winter and the tendency of fashion to become more basic intimes of adversity, one would reasonably expect American fashion toveer closer to minimalism next spring and summer.
Not so, based on what American designers have shown in the openingdays of the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.
Menswear, particularly collections by Elie Tahari and Perry Ellis,continues in traditional American sportswear. Shades of blue arethe favorite accent color against whites and pale browns and grays,from windbreakers and plaid jackets to Bermuda shorts andtorso-skimming knit shirts.
The feel is simpler, more organic, natural and nature-inspired. Andit's even more evident in womenswear collections.
Designers such as Max Azria are designing not according toconvention or reaction but based on what they believe theircustomers want. And that's not clothes that will make them look orfeel depressed.
The BCBG collection Azria unveiled yesterday typified the subtleshift in design to clothes that radiate optimism andself-confidence without crossing the line to the sort ofno-holds-barred aesthetic of so many collections in recent seasons.
The pullback is in color canvasses, which this time are built onpale neutrals of gray, brown and white and look more organic. Popcolors such as purple and red are rationed sparingly. Prints aremore toned down than last spring, often reflecting nature themes,as seen in the Tahari womenswear line inspired by an urban tropicalparadise and Rachel Roy's African-print pieces.
Color saturation is the exception rather than the rule. But whendone, as in BCBG's lovely solid orange and fuchsia crepe and jerseydresses, it is always striking.
More than color and print, though, women's apparel seems driven byinventive cutting and draping of fabric. Perhaps in response tohotter summers that are marking record temperatures, designers areusing softer, lighter weight textiles that are more challenging towork with but yield rewards to the persistent.
Such fabrics come alive in the hands of skilled designers such asAzria, who added alluring drape details to silk, voile and jerseyjumpsuits as well as floaty sleeveless and strapless dresses. Whenyou toss in his belted dresses, tailored vests and chic platformsandals, Azria seemed to be nudging his client toward a moresophisticated, grown-up look without sacrificing his freshness andoriginality.
Comfort is critical, and designers know this. Silhouettes arelooser but not baggy or oversized, tailored but with an elegantfluidity that wears without constriction or confinement.
This holds true even in some special-occasion looks. Cesar Galindo,who unveiled his collection Thursday, combined silks, satins,organza burnouts and lace with bold fruit colors, black and whitein smartly designed day-to-evening separates, cocktail dresses andgowns inspired by Acapulco in the '60s.
New York fashion week, which officially runs eight days, continuestoday with showings by labels such as Lacoste, Charlotte Ronson,Rosa Cha and Rock and Republic. It concludes Friday evening, whenPhiladelphia native Ralph Rucci presents his newest Chado line asthe "Mercedes-Benz Presents" showcase designer.