Designers go for reassurance on the runway

Tag : Organza Fabric
NEW YORK - The country might be going through some of its toughesteconomic times. But on the runway, it's a world of easy and breezy. Designers for the most part kept it light and airy Sunday andMonday, showing spring collections that have a sense of playfulnessand ease, and opting for safety in what's familiar rather thangoing for cutting-edge. Most of the looks so far are rehashed from previous seasons, withbelted silhouettes, soft, less dramatic graphic prints, collectionsinspired by nature, generous use of lace, sequins and metallics,and the return of the bohemian look that was popular just a fewyears ago. Carolina Herrera was among those returning to her roots on Mondaywith a stunning collection of evening dresses and suits that wasstrong on bold color but maintained Herrera's sense of classicelegance. "I thought the colors were vibrant and beautiful," said Andre LeonTalley, a Durham native and Vogue's editor-at-large. "There was astrong sense of sophistication." Gone were any flights of fancy that took up space on Herrera'srunways in recent seasons. Instead, she focused on structured,masculine pantsuit (with cigarette pants!), soft evening gowns thatwere highly wearable in bright solids such as teal, marigold andhibiscus, and her signature white button downs with beading andembroidery. Talley said the collection should appeal to all ages, not justHerrera's core of society ladies in search of age-appropriateevening wear. Talley also had a nod of approval for actress Renee Zellweger, whosneaked into the show just before it started, stopping only toembrace Vogue's Anna Wintour on the way to her seat. "Renee was beautiful," he said. "She showed the way you want to seeCarolina Herrera worn." Lela Rose stole a page from Herrera by sticking with what she doesbest: evening wear. Most of her spring looks were morestraightforward than her looks from fall, with clean, classic linesthat have made her the go-to designer when you need analways-appropriate dress. Rose was subtle in adding a touch of African tribal wear to a fewlooks by creating dresses with fabric pieces that were twisted in asimilar style to Mende tribe women's headdresses. She was generous,however, in her choices of bold, rich pigments, including lapisblue, mustard yellow, sapphire and pimento. She ended the show with a series of can't-miss dresses, includingtwo stunning wedding gowns -- one in chiffon and one in organzawith a bow-tied front. Two other dresses, in particular, dazzled: a strapless cocktaildress with a ruffled front and a long gown with a one-shoulderruffled strap. Both were made with rich emerald green silk faille. Her separates might be a harder sell in comparison to the solidcollection of evening dresses. She shined, however, with a seriesof drop-waist tank dresses that were sportier than the traditionalLela Rose look. Lela Rose ready to wear is sold in the Triangle at Vermillion. Herwedding gowns are sold in Durham at Tre Bella Bridal. Diane Von Furstenberg was among the designers this season lookingto the '60s for inspiration. Straying further from her trademarkworking girl's wrap dress, DVF's bohemian-inspired looks werebreezy and somewhat complicated with big, bold colors and a heavymix of floral prints. She called her collection "effortlessly seductive" with airychiffons and flowing long dresses that were far from her structuredwraps and shirt dresses that have put her back on the map in recentyears. The rock goddess-themed collection relied heavily on varyingproportions, from harem pants that cropped at the ankle toform-fitting sweater dresses. She had billowy tops cinched looselyat the waist with wide leather belts and chic mini caftans in whatmight become her new signature nature-inspired prints. Most notableamong them: a mini tunic in a black and white butterfly print. A few dresses hit the old DVF mark of effortless chic, including apurple drape dress, a bright orange jacquard and chiffon dress anda lollipop stripe sequined shift. Each was uncomplicated and seemedeasy to wear. As for the working girl, unless she's willing to wear jumpsuitswith harem pants or mini caftans into the boardroom, the DVF forspring might be best left for hot summer nights. DVF is sold in the Triangle at department stores such as Nordstromand Saks Fifth Avenue and boutiques such as Gena Chandler andBeanie + Cecil. Tracy Reese also looked to nature and romance for inspiration forher spring collection, relying on floral prints and pastels for herrelaxed silhouettes. She also introduced a new Black Label collection, what she calls an"upstairs" version of the core Tracy Reese brand. The look was allabout rich fabrics, including organza, chiffon and brocades. She was at her best Sunday with her signature frocks and shifts,the standout being an oleander rose double peplum strapless dress. Donna Karan, in her blowout 20th anniversary runway show Sunday,took a step back in time for inspiration, with a series ofdrop-waist dresses that could have been from 1989, but without theheavy accessories and big hair. There were other signs she was reminiscing: outfits with navy andshots of lime green and others with electric blue and black,boyfriend jackets and the parachute dress. The ultimate in '80sredux, however, was a black stretch jersey dress with a pink bowtied around the hips.