Searching for the Shape of Things to Come

Tag : shape bar

From the moment you enter Adour Alain Ducasse (2 E. 55th St.; 212-710-2277), wine is a theme that plays over andover again. At the small bar, see-through golden globes suspendedby thin bronze wires appear to float like champagne bubbles. Insidethe sumptuous main dining room, diners sink into plush,plum-colored chairs and gaze at walls fronted with a glass screenetched with grape-leaf patterns. Decanting stations dress up thefour corners.
The food, from executive chef Tony Esnault, is designed to takeadvantage of the restaurant's rich, and richly priced, winecollection. What I experienced was both beautiful and true-tasting,but nothing I felt I hadn't tasted before. A first course ofsee-through ravioli came with a faint crunch from its filling ofzucchini, a mild mouthful enhanced by a vegetable broth ignitedwith preserved lemon. Cod had a lush texture from its poaching inolive oil; velvety strips of red and yellow peppers and a sail ofcrisp prosciutto added vivid color and crunch, respectively.Everything was technically correct, but I couldn't help but thinkthe dishes got a boost from their gilded backdrop. And I couldn'thelp but wish for a bit more soul in my three-course, $180-a-headdinner.
A chef for the Washington Adour has yet to be announced. Here'shoping his or her food lives up to the room, and vice versa.
Entrees, $32-$49.