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At Black Water, a successful combination of flavors

http://www.boston.com/news/local/massachusetts/art [2008-7-14]

Tag : Beer Tower

Black Water Grill
43 Pelham Rd., Salem, N.H.
603-328-9013, theblackwatergrill.com
Hours: Monday through Wednesday, 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Thursday andFriday, 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Saturday, noon to 10 p.m.; ClosedSunday
Reservations recommended
Major credit cards accepted
Accessible to the handicapped
At a time when chain restaurants seem to dominate the dining-outscene, it's always a treat to find an independent eatery that hasfound success by serving traditional dishes with creative flair.The Black Water Grill, open since February 2006, is one of thoserestaurants.
Located near Interstate 93, the restaurant is comfortable enoughfor a casual weeknight dinner but also fits the bill for a specialcelebration. My friend and I visited this restaurant on a busyWednesday night last month. As we entered, many people wereenjoying dinner and drinks on the spacious patio. Because the patiowas full at the time, we chose to have a casual meal in the bararea rather than in the dining room.
We began our meal with a few appetizers - the black water crabbiesand the lobster wontons. Our starters were served, fresh and warm,a few minutes later.
The black water crabbies ($11) were small but hearty, consisting ofa generous portion of jumbo lump crab meat mixed with sun-driedtomatoes, red peppers, capers, and sesame seeds, with a flavorfultartar sauce and mustard mixture.
The lobster wontons ($12), a twist on crab rangoons, were equallydelicious. We enjoyed the generous portions of Maine lobster andcheeses stuffed inside large crispy wontons. The wontons wereserved with a tangy sauce with both sweet and nutty flavors.
Owner Christian Breen and executive chef Sue Hurell work togetherto create interesting dishes for customers and aren't afraid toexperiment with flavor combinations. In fact, many of therestaurant's sauces and summer salads were developed by casuallytrying different ingredients together to see what worked.
After our appetizers, we trusted the Black Water Grill's creativityand it was time for a few entrees. Sticking with a seafood theme(the restaurant has plenty of beef and chicken dishes, too), myfriend ordered the lobster ravioli ($17) and I chose the Greektragedy sauté ($19).
The lobster ravioli comes from Joseph's Gourmet Pasta in Haverhilland the entree was large and filling. The dish was generouslytopped with the Black Water Grill's house sauce, a tasty tomatoParmesan cream sauce, which is made fresh daily.
My meal, the Greek tragedy sauté, found its place on the menuafter being a hit with customers when offered as a special onenight. Pasta, shrimp, scallops, spinach, feta cheese, kalamataolives, and a light garlic white wine sauce make up this heartydish, which was delicious. I even enjoyed my leftovers the nextday.
Breen is committed to incorporating local flavors into therestaurant's meals and acquires many ideas from area farms. As alocal business, the Black Water Grill supports other regionalvendors whenever possible, and its fresh seafood comes from Bostonand Ipswich.
We were satisfied with our dinner but just couldn't pass up dessertwhen we heard several had just come out of the oven. We chose toshare the chocolate walnut brownie bread pudding with Amarettosauce, which arrived piping-hot. Light, with just the right amountof sweetness, the dish was paired with cool whipped cream. All butone of the Black Water Grill's desserts is homemade and selectionschange daily. A bakery in Lawrence makes the restaurant's popularchocolate tower cake.
Addressing its customers' needs, the restaurant is developing agluten-free menu and now serves a gluten-free beer, Redbridge, madeby Anheuser-Busch.
With quality meals to fit all tastes, mixed with unique flavors andthe charm of a small-town restaurant, the Black Water Grill knowswhat it takes to please its customers and their appetites.

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