Strip-mall eateries that aren\'t stripped of creativity

Tag : Date Syrup

Tired of the same old chains that dominate West Broward stripshopping centers, we went on a hunt for new and creativeindependents. Even in today's tough economy, we found severalrestaurants trying to carve out niches in the marketplace.
BISTRO 555
Located in the shopping center adjacent to Muvico Paradise inDavie, Bistro 555 is the perfect place for a date night: dinner anda movie.
It's a little more upscale than your average strip-mall restaurantwithout being fancy. It tends to be quiet in the early evening, butif you plan to arrive after 8 p.m., make reservations.
If you end up waiting, Bistro 555 has a nice bar area with a viewof the open kitchen and wood-burning pizza oven, plus therestaurant has three flat-screen televisions.
The menu is a mix of Italian favorites, gourmet pizzas, seafood andgrilled meats. Value-minded diners will appreciate that a salad(house or Caesar) is included with every entree and pasta.
It's an accommodating place. They'll do half portions of any dishfor children, and were happy to oblige our group's requests toswitch sauces and pastas on several dishes.
We tried and liked the pesto linguine with chicken (sun-driedtomatoes add a nice complement), shrimp diavalo (five good-sizedshrimp and a sauce just spicy enough, if a little oily) and chickenbreast stuffed with spinach, mozzarella and ham (all the heartierwith our red-sauce substitution). Next time we'd skip the blandfried-calamari starter.
Bistro 555 is the kind of place where you can spend conservativelyand have a nice dinner for well under $20 a person or splurge onmore expensive specials. Either way, it's becoming a neighborhoodfavorite.
• Bistro 555 , 15651 Sheridan St., Davie: pastas $10.95-$17.50, fish and seafood$14.50-$22.95, grilled meat $12.95-$24.75; full bar; 954-358-0808,bistro555.com.
FRANK AND PATTIES
The restaurant's slogan is ''Good Mood Food,'' and it definitelyserves the type of comfort food that will make you feel good aslong as you forget about the calories.
The décor is an updated take on the classic '50s diner. Thebright yellow walls are hung with memorabilia like a Citizen Kane movie poster, vintage vinyl LPs and an old-fashioned Schwinnbicycle.
The menu focuses on the signature products: frankfurters andhamburger patties. There are at least 10 versions of each, fromtraditional chili dogs, barbecue burgers and patty melts tocreative combinations like the Waffler, a hamburger patty betweentwo waffles topped with butter sauce, bacon and maple syrup.
Looking for a healthier option? Try the chicken sandwiches andsalads. Want to get the best of both? Top your salad with a frankor patty.
While Frank and Patties is pricier than your typical fast-foodrestaurant, the quality is a step above. The burgers use freshground chuck and are similar to what you would make on yourbackyard grill.
Sides must be ordered separately or by upgrading to a combo meal($2.79 or $3.79), and they're well worth it. Thick-cut,beer-battered onion rings are crunchy, not greasy, and fries aremade from freshly cut potatoes with the skin still attached.
You can save money and calories by skipping the Otto's Malt Shopofferings. The malted milk we tried had more ice than flavor.
• Frank and Patties , 3800 N. University Dr., Sunrise: Frankfurters $2.99-$5.99,hamburgers $4.79-$6.99, chicken sandwiches $5.49-$6.79 (add $2.79or $3.79 for a combo); 954-749-2424.
MEZES
It's a long way from Pembroke Pines to the Mediterranean, but Mezesis trying to bring some of the ambience of a Greek taverna to ahalf-empty strip center.
The stamped concrete floor and terra cotta partitions betweentables create a comfortable space for diners to linger over aselection of the namesake mezes (appetizers).
Mezes welcomes diners with garlicky hummus and warm pita triangles.We followed it with an order of spanakopita -- nicely seasonedspinach and feta wrapped in flaky phyllo dough.
Entrees include the Plaki, moist tilapia baked in white wine,topped with chopped fresh tomatoes and caramelized onions andserved with plain white rice and (overcooked) green beans. TheYouvesti brought tender lamb shank baked with cheese and orzoseasoned with cardamom and tomatoes.
If you want to take a taste of Greece home, Greek olive oil,pastries and more are for sale up front.