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Rafting on, and sometimes in, the mighty Colorado

[2008-7-30]

Tag : Marker Tie

For the first three days, you kind of assume you’re in aWestern.
The rock is red. The sky is blue. The clouds, when they show up,are puffy white. It all glides by at the languid, satisfyinglyinformative pace of a panning shot. When the gaze drifts above thecanyon rim, what appears is the signature iconography of a JohnFord film: butte, mesa, chimney rock.
And then, on the fourth day, you look up and the oarsman is gone.
How odd. That looks like him downstream, swimming frantically backtoward the yellow raft, which is no longer drifting languorously onthe famous Colorado River. Swollen by the largest snowmelt inrecent years, the waterway has meandered to the point in southernUtah where there are no more banks to wash over and simply enrichwith silt. When the Colorado reaches Cataract Canyon, the stonewalls draw closer, the bottom pitches forward and the riveraccelerates, churning massive waves from left and right to crashtogether in the middle. These waves are tall, angry and of profoundconcern to Brian when he reappears, almost magically, in the littleboat, grabs the oars and takes a long look downstream.
“Oh (bad word)!” he says. “Oh (bad word)! Oh (badword)!”
Turns out we’re in an adventure film. And no one is rulingout disaster.
This is why you buy a rafting trip: $800 for five days in June,when the water is highest, on a stretch of the Colorado routinelyovershadowed by a more famous section farther west and south, whichCataract in fact resembles in just about every way except depth.
“Did you see that movie Thelma and Louise?” asksMarcus, the guide from the other raft. He points toward a toweringrock wall just ahead on the right. It is Day One.

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