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Jiayuguan Fort

2008-03-18

Jiayuguan Fort is a statement. To any visitor from the west, the massive complex – over 600 metres of fortress wall enclosing towers with upturned flying eaves, red columns and elaborate carvings – announces, unmistakably, that you are now in China.

The symbolism is intentional. Since its construction, Jiayuguan Fort has been considered the beginning of the Great Wall in the west and a border marker between China proper and its frontier hinterlands. Its eastern-facing gate bears the inscription “The Gate to Glorious Civilisation.” On the western gate there was once a plaque describing the fort as “The First Fortified Pass Under Heaven” (also translated as “The Greatest Pass Under Heaven” or “The Strongest Fortress Under Heaven”). Apparently this plaque was lost or stolen in the 20th century, but we found what seems to be a reconstruction just outside the fort.

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