Plans for a brick patio with natural stone border

Tag : Chalk Powder
Preparation and Overview A brick patio accented by a natural stone border is just the kindof place that will draw you and your family on a warm evening.Patios have been around a long time, but never before has theselection of stones, paving brick and other materials been bettersuited for attractive, long-lasting designs.






In this article, we’ll show you how to build this intimatebrick and stone patio. You don’t need a big yard, just a cozylittle spot. Lay a border of stone any size and shape you want.Then fill the middle with your choice of paver bricks. The resultis a permanent, maintenance-free patio with the casual look of anold English garden.
Building A Brick And Stone Patio Like Ours Doesn't Take SpecialSkills . . . But It'll Make You Sweat

The casual, free-form design allows you to relax and be creativerather than worrying about precise cutting and fitting. We’lltell you everything you need to know to do it. In a nutshell:
Plan the size.
Dig a hole about 10 in. deep, and pack a 6-in. layer of gravel toform a flat base that slopes slightly for drainage.
Set the stones and brick in a layer of sand and tamp them down sothe surface is even.
Fill the cracks with sand, tamp again, then landscape around thenew patio and you’re done.
This project isn’t technically difficult, but be prepared todevote a big chunk of time and energy to it. You’ll haul manytons of dirt, gravel, stone and brick before you’re done.With a small crew of strong and ambitious helpers, you could finishthis project in two or three weekends, but working alone at aleisurely pace, you’ll spend the better part of a summer.
We assembled our patio from used street pavers that we bought froma brickyard. Individually, the bricks look a little crude, coveredwith tar and well worn, but the overall effect is perfect. Then wechose tumbled Wisconsin limestone for the border. The tumblingrounds the edges and gives the stone a worn look that complementsthe rustic appearance of the used pavers.
You may not find the exact materials we used locally; check thestone dealers in your area to see what’s available.
This patio costs about as much as a premium-quality wood deck. Wespent just over $4,500, or about $11.25 per square foot. The costof stone varies widely, though. Depending on your location, youmight spend a lot more or a lot less.
The character of the stone makes this patio!

Click image to enlarge.
Stone varies greatly in color and texture. Visit a number of stonesuppliers to see what’s available in your area and to checkprices. (See the Yellow Pages under “Stone” or“Landscaping.”) We chose 3- or 4-in. thick stoneintended for building walls, but any relatively flat stonethat’s 2 to 4 in. thick will work. Because stone is sold bythe ton (we used 5- 1/2 tons at $250 per ton), a thinner stone likeflagstone would have been more economical, but it wasn’tavailable in the tumbled finish we wanted. If you use thinnerstone, don’t tamp it with the compactor. It will crack. Thestone dealer will tell you approximately how many square feet a tonof each type of stone covers. Order at least 15 percent extra toallow more selection when you’re looking for just the rightshape.
Concrete pavers are the most economical choice for paving patios.They cost about 49¢ each and are available in many sizes andcolors. Traditional clay pavers have truer brick color and costabout 68¢ each. We paid 90¢ each for these used streetpavers, but prices vary widely.
Concrete pavers are available at home centers and landscaperetailers, but you’ll probably have to find a brickyard tobuy clay pavers (in the Yellow Pages under “Brick”).You’ll need about 4-1/2 bricks for every square foot,assuming an average-sized 4 x 8-in. brick. It’s difficult tofigure the exact amount of brick needed for an irregularly shapedpatio like this, so order about 15 percent extra.
FIG. A How the layers go together
Click image to enlarge.
Rental Tools
Sod cutter (rent for $10 per day)
Gas-powered tampe (rent for $60 per day)
Gas-powered masonry saw (rent for $60 a day) Tool List
Leather gloves
Safety glasses
Hearing protection
Garden hose
Shovel
Rake
Wheelbarrow
Hammer
Brick hammer
Tape measure
Chalk line and blue chalk
Mason’s string line
Wooden stakes
Permanent felt markers
3/4-in. x 10-ft. black iron pipes A Cozy Spot Is The Main Requirement For A Patio Like This
But you’ll also want to consider the following:
Shade. You’ll want it. If you don’t have it, includeshade plants or structures in your plan.
Drainage. Avoid low spots. Pick a spot that’s well drained.
Slope. A little slope, less than about 1/4 in. per foot, is OK.More than that and you’ll have to build retaining walls orregrade the surrounding soil.
Digging complications. Don’t build directly under trees. Itcould damage the tree, and besides, digging out roots is no fun.Contact local utility companies before you dig and have them locateburied lines.
Plan a strategy for getting the materials to and from your patiolocation. Sand and gravel will arrive in dump trucks that are tooheavy to be driven on your driveway or in your yard withoutdamaging them. You’ll probably have to use wheel-barrows. Ifit’s a long haul, ask your supplier for a smaller truck orskid loader that can get closer.
When you’ve found a suitable spot, make a rough sketchshowing trees, shrubs and gardens, then take measurements. Transferthese measurements to graph paper, letting each square equal 1 ft.Lay tracing paper over your plan and sketch in the stone border andbricks. Experiment with different designs, and when you come upwith a plan you like, use it to calculate the quantities ofmaterials and help you place the stones. Remember that this is acasual, free-form patio. Have fun and let the plan evolve as youwork.
It’S What’S Underneath That Counts
Stone and brick are what you see, but the landscape fabric, graveland sand are what hold them together and make your patio last. Ifyour stone or brick supplier doesn’t have these products,check the Yellow Pages under “Landscape Equipment andSupplies” or “Sand and Gravel.” Landscape fabricstabilizes the soil underneath the gravel base by keeping themapart while allowing water to drain through. We used 12-1/2 ft.wide, heavy, woven stabilization fabric purchased from our stonesupplier ($2.20 per square yard). If this isn’t available,use the widest landscape fabric you can find.
Class V (“five”) limestone forms the foundation of ourpatio, but there may be different materials available in yourregion. Any granular fill will work as long as the size of thegranules ranges from 3/4 in. down to a powder and they’reangular, not smooth and round. These qualities allow the fill to betightly packed for a firm base that allows water to drain through.A mixture of recycled concrete and asphalt is widely available andis a good substitute for Class V.
Depending on your soil, you’ll need a 4- to 10-in. thicklayer of gravel. Sandy soils require less gravel than soils withorganic matter or clay. Gravel is sold by the ton or cubic yard.One cubic yard (27 cu. ft.) covers about 50 sq. ft. at a 6-in.depth by the time it’s compacted, and weighs 1-1/2 tons. Weused 12 tons of gravel at $12 per ton and paid $50 for delivery.
Coarse washed sand is spread over the gravel in a 1-in. layer toform a setting bed for the stone and brick, and later to fill thecracks between the bricks and stone. We used 5 tons of sand at $10per ton.
Pick Up Your Shovel And Get Ready To Move 16 Tons Of Dirt
Before you start digging, set up a string line across the center ofthe patio in the direction you want the water to drain. Adjust thestring so it slopes 1 in. for every 10 ft. (Photo 2). You’lluse this string to gauge the depth of the hole as you dig, and toset the slope of the compacted base.
To keep the patio flush with the yard, you’ll have to dig outabout 10 in. of dirt, and then find a place to put the excess.That’s a lot of dirt. Consider building a raised planter bedor grassy mound in your yard. If that’s not possible, you maywant to jump-start the project by hiring an excavator with a skidloader and dump truck to dig the hole and haul away the dirt. As alast resort, rent a large trash bin, at least 10 cu. yds., and movethe dirt into it with a wheelbarrow. Let the company knowyou’ll be filling it with dirt, though, because it’lllikely limit how much you can put in. Use your plan and a gardenhose to outline the patio and mark the excavation (Photo 1).
If your soil is soft or soggy, you might have to add more gravelfill to create a stable base. Ask your building inspector or a soilengineer to recommend the right base for you.
If You Get The Base Right, Your Patio Will Last Decades
Take a well-deserved break when you’re done digging.Double-check your calculations for gravel and sand and arrange fordeliveries. Then call the rental store and reserve a gas-poweredplate compactor or “tamper” (about $50 per half day;Photo 17). This is a heavy beast; you’ll need a trailer orpickup truck and a couple of strong bodies to move it around.
Before you start filling the hole, roll out the landscape fabric,allowing it to extend at least 6 in. beyond the patio all around.Use spikes to temporarily hold it in place. To establish a strong,flat base, follow our two-step procedure. First spread and tampdown two layers of gravel (Photos 4 and 5), each about 2 to 3 in.thick. Then establish a perfectly flat surface with a final 1 to1-1/2 in. layer (Photo 7) and tamp this down. When you’redone, you’ll have a solid, flat base that slopes slightly fordrainage and is ready for the sand bed, stones and bricks.
Setting Stones Is Like Assembling A Jigsaw Puzzle
The next step in the project is to lay the stone border. Measurethe thickness of a few stones to get an average and compare thiswith the thickness of the bricks you’re using. Then adjustthe depth of the sand bed to compensate for the difference inthickness. Your goal is to get the stones and brick even on thetop. Set up strings around the perimeter parallel to the gravelbase as references for setting the stone.
Setting the stone is like assembling a complicated jigsaw puzzle.It’ll take time and patience, but the reward is great. Spreadout the stones so you can pick the best shape. Stagger the jointsas you fit the stones. If possible, limit gaps to about 1 in.
Once You Set The Pattern, Brick Laying Goes Quickly
With the border stones in place, it’s time to lay the bricks.The simple running bond pattern (Photo 12) we’ve chosen looksgood with the stone border and is easy to lay. Start by screedingout a layer of sand (Photo 10) so that the bricks will end up about3/8 in. above the surface of the stone. When you run the compactorover the bricks to seat them, they’ll settle down flush withthe stone.
Snapping chalk lines directly in the sand is the best way to keepyour bricks running straight (Photo 11). For the running bondpattern, you’ll only need a baseline and two linesperpendicular to the baseline, offset by half the width of a brick.Fill the area with full bricks. Then rent a masonry saw with awet-cutting diamond blade to cut the border bricks. Thesedon’t have to fit perfectly. You can plant ground cover inthe large gaps to give your patio a more natural look.
We experimented with a few different cutting methods and settled onthe gas-powered masonry saw as the best option for our pavers(Photo 14). The diamond blade on this saw is not nearly asdangerous as a wood-cutting blade, but even so, follow safetyprecautions. Wear rubber gloves, safety glasses and hearingprotection. If the rental store doesn’t have a gas-poweredsaw, use an electric tile-cutting saw instead. It’ll cut alittle bit slower.
When you’re done setting bricks, run the compactor over themto settle them in and create a level surface. Keep the compactormoving to avoid breaking bricks or creating a low spot. If yourstone is thick like ours, tamp it along with the bricks.Don’t tamp thinner stone (2 in. thick or less); it may break.
Sweep In The Sand, Drop In Some Plants And Pull Out Your PatioChairs
Before you spread the sand, pack dirt around the perimeter (Photo16). Then sweep sand into the cracks (Photo 18). If your sand isdamp, spread it out to dry before sweeping it into the cracks. Ifyou run short, buy 50-lb. bags of mason’s sand at a homecenter or lumberyard.
Finish up by landscaping around the patio. We added a stone pathand a few steps at the upper end of the patio and planted aperennial bed alongside. Our landscape consultant recommendedplanting a small ornamental tree at the front of the patio tocreate an inviting entrance. A table and a few chairs gave us theonly excuse we needed to sit back and enjoy a well-deserved break.