Alexis Mabille haute couture

Tag : antique brooch

The Paris haute couture season opens with Alexis Mabille's newcollection. Hilary Alexander reports In pictures: Alexis Mabille a/w 08/09 haute couture collection Paris haute couture season swings into gear
The young Parisian couturier, Alexis Mabille, opened the Frenchhaute couture season this morning (June 30) with an inspiredcollection which combined references to black tie dressing and themilitary, mixed with fairytale glamour and more than a hint ofnaughty-but-nice see-through details.
One 'little' black dress, which drew gasps of astonishment from theaudience gathered in the balustraded rotunda of the MuséeGalliera, was as modest as a governesses's uniform from the front;completely covered from neck to ankle. But, as the model turned,she revealed herself to be virtually naked, save for a thin'veiling' of see-through tulle.
Although this was only the second couture catwalk appearance forMabille, 31, from Lyon - who also designs custom jewellery for YvesSaint Laurent - the young designer has already garnered animpressive clientele which includes Sofia Coppola and a host ofwealthy French social butterflies – a motif, incidentally,which often decorated his creations.
While many of his designs have a delightful, youthful exuberanceand freshness, he is equally at home working more elegant andgrown-up pieces.
Cocktail and evening gowns were often based on tuxedo style withneat, winged collars and a pleated bodice. More flowing creationsin pastel and black silk gazar were accompanied by gilt-embroidered'Napoleonic' waistcoats.
Girlish, 'fairy' party-frocks for the twenty-somethings in navy,black and pastel, came with a frou-frou of dotted tulle spillingout of the corseted bodice, an effect which was repeated,petticoat-style at the hem.
Mabille's daywear was equally impressive, including drop-waistshirt-dresses with pleated details and precision-cut Prince ofWales trousers or pencil skirts with silk shirts.
Over-sizing was another theme. A vast, full-sleeved 'smock' inaquamarine straw-net, trimmed with velvet and taffeta, came as anextravagant ballgowns, emblazoned with a diamond and coral skullantique brooch, by the vintage jewellery specialist, LydiaCourteille. Her elaborate cuffs, featuring imaginary animals,serpents and fish in precious stones, were the finishing touches tomany cocktail dresses.
For his finale bridal ensemble, Mabille reprised his ooh-la-lainspiration, dressing his model in a ruffle-edged, see-through gownwhich was best described as an elaborate 'veil' over boudoir-pinksatin tap-pants.
The haute couture season continues today with major shows by JohnGalliano for Christian Dior, and Giorgio Armani.