Portrait of a man - and his war chest

Tag : tie pant

This was not a show like last season's flesh-crawling explorationof Fellini-esque sin. But it put the pieces of a wardrobe togetherin a different way to make a portrait of a modern male.
Alexander McQueen 's powerful show was more "sexplicit" because he entered the genderarena with a war chest of ideas and inspiration for both sexes.Using the opportunity of a runway show to send out a dozen looksfrom his women's cruise collection, the designer strengthened hismessage, which was all about the body and illusions.
"Smoke and mirrors translated into clothes," said McQueenbackstage, referring to that cliché of the magician. Butagainst a white-lighted backdrop, the designer created anexhilarating exploration of the male and female figures, usinggraphics to shape the silhouette, recalling the 1960s op artexperiments of artists like Bridget Riley.
In this shadow play on tightly molded clothes, there was indeedsmoke - curls of it printed or even embroidered on jackets andtops, while psychedelic color highlighted a pant waistband or thesole of a gleaming green shoe. Among the precision tailoring,contrasting matte and shiny surfaces, second-skin tulle and Lycrasweaters in flesh colors were marked with a rib cage of pattern -that male chest once again the focus of fashion.
A triangular vest, with two flaps forming a new geometry across thetorso, was Emporio Armani 's contribution to the new man. Whereas this line once seemed likea sporty younger brother to the signature Giorgio Armani brand,this show seemed like a full-blown fashion event, with stars ofsport and screen, including the rumpled heartthrob Josh Hartnett,front row to promote the "Diamonds" fragrance.
Perhaps that gemstone was the inspiration for the vests, which, asso often in the designer's show, were made rather too persistent anidea. Yet they did give a jaunty air to the tailoring, exposingflesh at neck and at the midriff under suits that mixed textureslike herringbone and pinstripes. Although the show had a particularpants shape - wide-ish but caught with a pleat at the ankle - theEmporio man had plenty to experiment with, from frilled, PrinceCharming knickers to baggy harem pants with pajama-stripes. ButArmani put his stamp on the focus of his collection when thegeometric vest was replaced by the stamp of an eagle - the Emporiologo on bare flesh.
Salvatore Ferragamo is expanding in India - and that was the inspiration for thesunset pinks and orange that invaded the white and neutral shadesin the collection. The designer Massimiliano Giornetti pluckedother Indian emblems, like looped scarves, strands of pearls orflowered necklets that either hung free or were absorbed into shirtfronts as a flutter of frills spilling down the chest - in focus,once again.