The Mosque of Sultan Al-Muayyad Sheikh is on the east side of BabZuweila

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You can enter Islamic Cairo from Ataba Squareproceeding east on Gawhar Al-Qaed Street. On both sides of thestreet you will find several traces that indicate your advancetowards an area of unprecedented feelings of history. Turn north onAl-Muiz Street. This street in the historic Gammaliya district incentral Cairo seems to be the most appropriate starting pointbecause you are going to find yourself directly in the din of thestory. It's not fair to notice the narrowness of this street ifcompared to the more modern avenues, though it includes Cairo'sgreatest live museums of Islamic and mediaeval monuments. You cancall it an open-air museum. The street is named after the Fatimidcaliph le-Din Allah who conquered Cairo in 969 AD.
Enter Al-Muiz Street through Bab Zuweila to the south. BabZuweila's archway served as the southern gate of the fortress wallthat encircled Islamic or Fatimid Cairo. The caliph used to watchthe annual pilgrimage caravan going to Mecca from his palace thatadjoined the gate. The same gate was notorious as a site of publicexecutions. Criminals were hung in cupolas in the gate's walls. Itwas named after the Zuweila tribe that lived nearby. Bab Zuweilawas also called Babet Al-Mutawali (the Responsible) and Al-Mutawaliwas responsible for conveying the problems of the people to thecaliph.
The Mosque of Sultan Al-Muayyad Sheikh is on the east side of BabZuweila. You can climb the minaret of the mosque through a door inthe prayer hall and enjoy a spectacular view of Islamic Cairo fromabove.
It's an area full of beginnings and no end, that's to say onecannot catch everything in the first sight of the place. In caseyou are visiting for the first time and unfamiliar with the dresscode of such an area, be sure you are decently covered beforecontemplating a tour in the mosque. The religious traditions,though not so rigid, ought to be taken into consideration. On anyRamadan day, all the mosques of the area are crowded with peoplefrom all the Egyptian regions and Arab countries. Ramadan as areligious occasion is full of rituals and ceremonies. It's themonth of fasting. Muslims all over the world consider it a sacredmonth ( Al-Shahr Al-Haram).
If you continue walking north on Al-Muiz Street, you will findyourself in the middle of a garlic and onion market. There are manygarlic shops in this area which is famous for this kind of trade.At the end of this market, there is the Mosque of Al-Hakim Be'amrAllah, the third Fatimid caliph. He ruled when he was only 11 yearsold and had his tutor murdered when he was 15. He is famous for hisstrange actions and violence. He even ordered shoemakers to stopmanufacturing shoes for women to prohibit them from leaving theirhouses or walking in the street. This mosque was actually built byhis father Al-Hakim, completed in 1013, and was used as a prisonfor crusaders in the period of Mohamed Ali. It was restored in the1980s and is now a good example of the Islamic art of the period.
Al-Muiz Street continues through Islamic Cairo's northern walls andgates, including Bab Al-Nasr, Gate of Victory, and Bab Al-Fotouh,Gate of Conquests. They were both built in 1087 and were enlargedby Salaheddin Al-Ayoubi. It is possible to walk on the walls andnear these gates by jumping from the roof of Al-Hakim Mosque andthen to the walls. These gates demonstrate a great example of howCairo was protected in the Fatimid period.
SOUVENIR STOP: Retrace your steps about 200 metres, turn east andyou will find yourself in arguably the most famous tourist marketin the world, Khan Al-Khalili with its famous cafés and manysouvenir shops. During this appealing walk on Al-Muiz Street, it isgreat to freshen up in the Khan's most famous café,Al-Fishawy. Just beside the Khan Al-Khalili is the entrance to theother part of Al-Muiz Street. It starts with Al-Sagha, which meansthe gold sellers. There are many gold and silver shops at thebeginning of this part of the street. You can buy wonderful giftsthere at the best prices. There are also many spice and perfumedealers, as well as the traditional gift shops that sell papyrus,gifts, shisha waterpipes and other kinds of souvenirs. Just east of the Khan youwill find Midan Hussein (Hussein Square). This was the centre ofmediaeval Cairo and today remains an important area for someIslamic religious festivals, including Ramadan. To the north ofthis is a relatively new Mosque of Sayedna Al-Hussein. Though newin terms of Egypt, it is a very sacred site to Muslims and thosenot of that faith should not enter.
PLACES TO EAT: After the short quietude of the fast- breakingperiod (Iftar) at sunset on a Ramadan day, the square will be fullof life. Taking Iftar there in any of the diverse restaurantsbeside Sayedna Al-Hussein Mosque brings the added element of afeeling of vibrant life. Of course, there are so many restaurants.Your budget doesn't matter there; for you can spend much if you aregoing to devour the posh Egyptian cuisine and have a gourmet Iftaror Sohour (the pre-dawn meal eaten before a new day of fasting) atfive-star restaurants such as the Oberoi. There, you can choosebetween their three set Iftar menus that offer all you can imagineof Egyptian cuisine delights for LE70-125 along with two menus forSohour moderately priced at LE30-40. Otherwise you can try thelocals' most popular fuul and falafel from Gad or Mahmoud restaurants and reach a doublesatisfaction of taste and budget for LE20. You will pay nothing incase of having your Iftar on one of God's Mercy Banquets (Mawa'ed Al-Rahman -- meals which the rich offer to the visitors of the area whetherrich or poor), which are plentiful in Islamic Cairo especiallyaround Hussein Square and in and around Al-Azhar Mosque.
BETWEEN THE PALACES: A few steps east of Al-Hussein Mosque, youwill enter the area of Bein Al-Qasrein. The word means"between the two palaces". These two palaces used toexist 600 years ago, facing each other and opening on a publicsquare that was the centre of Fatimid Cairo, founded in 969 AD.Other dynasties replaced the buildings of the street with ones oftheir own but the street remained reserved for grand buildings.
The western side of Bein Al-Qasrein has the spectacularfaçades belonging primarily to three early Mamelukecomplexes. The most southerly is the Madrasa and Mausoleum ofSultan Qalawoun and it is the oldest of the three, having beencompleted in 1279. Three hundred prisoners worked in theconstruction of the complex, which was completed in 13 months.There is a dark corridor that goes from the madrasa to themausoleum, which is one of the most stunning interiors in Cairo.
Continuing north and adjoining the Qalawoun complex is the lessexpansive façade of the Madrasa and Mausoleum of SultanAl-Nasser Mohamed. It was built between 1299 and 1304 by a sultanwho was forced to leave his throne twice. He was able to regainpower in both cases and ruled for a total of 42 years. During thistime he built around 200 buildings, all over Cairo. The most famousamong them is his mosque in the Citadel complex. However, hismonument in Al-Muiz Street is in disrepair and is in the process ofbeing restored. However, the North African style minaret is awonderful sight to see.
Going north you will find the Madrasa of Sultan Barquq, which wasbuilt circa 1385. The madrasa looks similar to a mosque from theoutside. It was a school for teaching Islamic law. The mostinteresting thing in this complex is the four doors which arecovered with bronze. There is also the fascinating mausoleumbuilding that looks like an ornate jewellery box. Sultan Barquqwasn't buried there, but his daughter was. He was buried in thenorth cemetery.
The Bein Al-Qasrein area is very famous worldwide. Naguib Mahfouz,the famous Egyptian author who won the Nobel Prize for Literaturein 1988, used to live in this area. Most of his writings wereinspired by the place. The first novel of the Cairo Trilogy, themost famous Egyptian novels, was even called Bein Al-Qasrein, afterthis area.
Continue walking to the north and on your right you will find theBeshtak Palace, or Qasr Beshtak. It can easily be missed from theoutside because it is only a two-storey building with some mashrabiya windows. However, there is a narrow lane right to the house thatenters a beautiful Islamic reception. Beshtak was a powerful princewho married the daughter of the caliph and had great wealth andinfluence. His palace, which was built in 1334, was the host formany great parties and ceremonies. The house contained fivestories; only two remain. The roof has a wonderful panoramic viewof Islamic Cairo with all its minarets and buildings.
Moving along, in the middle of the street are the Sabil- Kuttab ofAbdel-Rahman Katkhuda. Islamic Cairo has many dotted odd-shapedbuildings that look like huge windows. These buildings are sabils , or fountains of fresh water. Copper cups were placed next tothese fountains so that people would come and take their supply ofwater. Wealthy people used to build sabils to make the people love them, and they believed they would becomecloser to God by helping others. The second floor of the sabil building was usually used as a kuttab , a place to teach the Quran and Islamic subjects.
Heading further north, you will find the Mosque of Al-Aqmar on theright. This mosque is also called the "grey mosque"because of the colour of its walls. The mosque was built in 1125 byone of the last Fatimid caliphs. It is well known and famous as theoldest stone mosque in Egypt. The decorations of the mosque areremarkable. Different geometric shapes and verses from the Quranare carved into the stone.
Walking along the street, you will find Darb Al-Asfar Lane. A quickthoroughfare to the Khan Al-Khalili market, the lane also hosts theamazing house of Suhaymi, a very good example of how a wealthyfamily used to live in old Islamic Cairo.
CAFÉ ZEBDYA: As I explained earlier, the problem is notwhere to start, or to which religious beliefs you belong, theproblem is how to absorb the fragrance of history that flowseverywhere and all the time. Café Zebdya (Misr Al-MahroosaCafé) is now a suitable place for some rest and a pot of teawith mint. There you will be received by the pious smile of theowner Haj Farag Zebdya. Just say hello and you will find him comingdirectly towards you: "You seem to be a journalist, sir, or aman of letters." Then the tales of the area will poursmoothly. In 1952, his late father distributed free sherbet (sweetened syrup) to celebrate the outbreak of the 1952Revolution.
"I've never left this café. Life changed, friendspassed away, but Sayedna Al-Hussein Square will last forever. Thisspace seems to be standing against the horrible changes oftime," Haj Farag says while his devoted eyes seem to bestraying away as though he was replying some unknown plea toremember something or someone. "Naguib Mahfouz sat here oncein this café. I don't lie to you, really he sat here oncebut his favorite café was Al-Fishawy."
AL-AZHAR AREA: To the south is the new Al-Azhar Park, amega-project that has transformed the surrounding neighbourhoods aswell as adding needed greenery to the city. Al-Azhar Park offers anexcellent view of the surrounding area and is a nice place to takea rest at the Hilltop or Lakeside cafés.
South of the park, Al-Azhar Mosque was founded in 972, shortlyafter the founding of Cairo itself. It was built on the orders ofCaliph Muiz le-Din Allah. It was called Al-Azhar after FatemaAl-Zahraa, daughter of Prophet Mohamed. It imitated both the AmrIbn Al-Aas and Ibn Toloun mosques. Today the university builtaround the mosque is the most prestigious of Muslim schools, andits students are highly esteemed for their traditional training.While 10,000 students once studied here, today the universityclasses are conducted in adjacent buildings and the mosque isreserved for prayer. In addition to the religious studies, modernschools of medicine, science and foreign languages have also beenadded.
ENTER THE HOUSES: Walk east on Port Said Street until it intersectswith Al-Azhar Street. Continue west on Al-Azhar Street, past theMosque of Abu Dahab, which currently houses students of Al-AzharUniversity. This mosque is one of Cairo's oldest mosques, butperhaps more importantly; it's the world's oldest university. Thestreet which runs along the side of the Al-Azhar Mosque is AtfaAl-Azhari and at the end of this street is Beit Zeinab Khatun,built in 1468 and refurbished in 1713. The first floor reflects thestyle of the Mameluke era while the second is Ottoman. Opposite thehouse is the Al-Ayni Mosque, and beyond that are two old houses atthe end of Atfa el-Ayni Street. They are the Beit Al-Harrawi, builtin the 1700s, and close by is Beit Sitt Wassila.
East of Al-Azhar Mosque, in the Darb Al-Ahmar neighbourhood, youwill pass by Beit Al-Harrawi which is situated between two narrowalleys, Harett Al-Madrasa and Zuqaq Al-Ayini. Several other Islamichouses and monuments are found in the Darb Al-Ahmar surroundings.It is adjacent to the house of Zeinab Khatoun, and to theGhannamiah Hall. Also at a near distance is Al-Ayini Mosque. Inspite of its importance, the house has a relatively small streetfaçade. The southern façade is especially remarkablebecause of its height and an impressive large wooden mashrabiya indicating the presence of a large hall (qa'a) on the first floor. The entrance used nowadays was a lateraddition that dates to the 19th century; it is located directlyadjacent to Sitt Wassila House.
As you enter Sitt Wassila House through the southern door, a longcorridor leads you into the courtyard which is an open-air areacontrolling the entrance to all parts of the house. What isnoticeable is the absence of a secondary space or porch called"Maguaz", which was one of the important Islamic designconcepts used in order to conceal the interior of the house andmainly the women living in it. This tradition became less strict inthe late 18th century. One of the main attractions of Al-Harrawi isthe "Mandara", a spacious sitting hall on the groundfloor that occupies all the east wing of the house. The Mandaraserved as a reception area for male guests, a space that is quitecommon in Islamic houses. A French architect, Bernard Maurey, underthe supervision of the French Institute of Oriental Archeology haslately restored it. At the moment, it is being reused as a culturalcentre for lectures, concerts, art exhibitions and other events.
Walking in the Al-Muiz Street is like walking through the historyof Islamic Egypt. The street is full of Islamic monuments. You canpass through the streets, view the monuments from outside, andenter the ones you feel attracted to. People in this area are quickto help you with anything.
South of Al-Azhar Mosque you pass a narrow alley called Al KahkeenStreet. The inhabitants of this alley were kahk makers (this is a local pastry that is made to mark the coming ofEid Al-Fitr after Ramadan). Their main profession was to bake,garnish, and decorate the kahk with folkloric drawings. These habits and ceremonies spread duringthe Fatimid regime. It's funny to remember what Al-Gabarti saidconcerning the kahkeen who were arrested because they decorated and garnished the kahk with erotic drawings. With the benefit of modernist hindsight, wecan see that they were not merely kahk makers, but creative mentalities trying to pave the way for theirliberal and free fantasies.
LAST STOP: AL-GHOURI SITES: At the end of our walking tour,southwest of kahkeen alley, lie the Mosque, Madrasa and Mausoleumof Qansuwah Al-Ghouri, one of the most famous Mameluke sultans. Thesites represent a beautiful complex and reminder of the Mamelukeera of Egypt. Al-Ghouri was a great builder who loved flowers andmusic, wrote poetry, and associated with Sufis and other pious menof his time. Energetic, he played polo into his 70s. But it wasAl-Ghouri, who turned the rule over to the Ottomans with his defeatin Syria.
Further south is the Wekalet Al-Ghouri, which the Sultan built in1504 AD. Wekalet Al-Ghouri was originally designed as an inn foraccommodating traders coming from all parts of the world as well asa marketplace for trading goods and a venue for making trade deals.Egypt was then the hub of overland trade caravans from east andwest. The external stone façade is impressive with its arrayof windows. There are a few small windows on the first floor, butthe upper storeys of the building have three rows of groupings ofthree windows of varying design. The top row is covered by mashrabiya panels, each panel being three windows wide. The entrance to thecourtyard is via a great door mounted in the lowest of threestacked arches. Inside, the building is very regular, with theexception of the first floor, which has wide arcades intersected bya gallery. The building is made up of four floors, each comprising28 rooms with domed ceilings, overlooking a rectangular-shapedcourtyard with a mosaic fountain in the middle. As such, WekaletAl-Ghouri still stands out as one of the loftiest and most enduringIslamic monuments remaining. It rightly reflects an apex of harmonyand symmetry in terms of both Islamic architecture and practicalfunctionality.
It's really a journey that mixes joy with history. You can't helpstopping every few steps to fix your eyes in astonishment on one ofthe buildings and feel eager to read the whole episode concerningthis edifice or the other. And every now and then, you will stop infront of one of the many bazaars selling souvenirs redolent of thedetails of the places you see.
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The Ramadan atmosphere in Islamic Cairo may attract you to stay anight or more in Al-Hussein area. Absolutely you will find so manycheap hotels at hand. One of them is Al-Hussein Hotel. It's locatedin Al-Hussein Square directly. A night there costs LE140 on ahalf-board basis. Radwan Hotel too is equally comfortable andinexpensive.