Alexandre Herchcovitch Pitches Fashion as Protest

Tag : men's linen suit

Clothing may be a universal concept, but fashion on the runwaydoesn't usually address larger issues outside of silhouettes, colorpalettes or fabric choices.

This week, while political dissidents face violent attacks inZimbabwe and a ceasefire takes effect on the Gaza strip, fashionweek in Sao Paulo is in full swing. But designer AlexandreHerchcovitch, who also shows his women's collection in New York,brought the political sphere to the fashion arena on Thursdayafternoon, the third full day of Summer 2009 shows.

A row of black flags formed the backdrop of the runway as hemarched out a collection of loose olive khaki pants, jumpsuits,shorts and shirts and jackets in multicolored ethnic prints.Herchcovitch was inspired not only by the traditional clothing wornby people of the Middle East, Eastern Europe and Turkey, but alsoby the military dress of the countries waging war in these areas,including Western armies.

Mixing militaristic-style silhouettes with ethnic prints offamiliar, yet indeterminate origin, Herchcovitch said in hisprogram notes that "it is a warning collection, a way of wearingfashion design as a protest, for freedom, compassion, love andequal rights for every human being." While Herchcovitch's fans willno doubt appreciate the political narrative underlying the attire,whether it will read as a statement of protest by the uninitiatedrather than a trendy adoption of ethnic dress remains to be seen,but at the very least, Herchcovitch has made it a point ofconversation in the fashion world, where such things are not alwaysdiscussed.

Another major international Brazilian fashion export, Maria Bonita,showed a charming collection largely featuring what could bedescribed as adult rompers: Loose linen onesies in wrinkled,semi-transparent linen utilizing this season's big color blockingtrend that conveyed a sense of whimsy. Oversized men's-style shirtsand voluminous dresses were the alternative to the slouchy pants.This collection by Maria Bonita will appeal to fans of Dries VanNoten and Marni.

Cori, designed by Dudu Bertholini and Rita Comparato for the secondseason (the duo also design under their own label Neon, which showsFriday night), was their take on Age of Aquarius hippie adoptionsof Native American and/or American Southwest dress. Think wardrobeappropriate for a road trip from Santa Fe to Los Angeles, or viceversa. Lots of denim, in the shape of culottes and high waistedflares, silk trousers in vibrant Southwestern prints and leatherfringe swinging from dresses, some of which featured huge goldmetallic chimes that noisily clanked as the models walked soundinglike a string of aluminum cans on a "Just Married" car fornewlweds. As one journalist remarked post-show, "That was theloudest show I've ever been to."

Iodice, another Brazilian export familiar in the U.S. for theirdenim and casualwear, showed a solid range of daywear and easyeveningwear for women looking for something with a bit of edge, yetnot terribly over-the-top or difficult to wear. The show openedwith a series of pleated silk shirts and dresses in black and whiteor dusty pink, some of which featured balloon sleeves and pleatedcap shoulders. The beachwear, in bright aqua, was standard issue(semi-transparent cover-ups, maillot suits, big hats) but softlydraped white dresses and trapeze gowns for evening took thecollection back up. The best were a series of color blocked dressesin an eye-catching palette of teal, nude, black and white.