Pristine punk, vintage glamour on display as Fashion Week winds down
[2008-4-16]
It was curtains inside the white tents at L'Oreal Fashion Week which wrapped runway shows on Day 4 at Nathan Phillips Square transitioning from contemporary casual wear ,'20s and '50s-era vintage glamour to edgy, stylized outerwear comprising leather, nylon and wool pieces for men and women.
Just like the previous Fashion Week last October, designer power couple Joseph Mimran and Kimberley Newport-Mimran bookended the week with their collections.
While Mimran's Joe Fresh Style line evoked equestrian, Newport-Mimran, the creative force behind Pink Tartan, forges an altogether different path towards the rock club rather than the races with her collection of punk-inspired pieces shown Thursday.
Pink Tartan: Punk goes pristine with the latest offerings from Kimberley Newport-Mimran who was inspired by the movement in 1970s London and the style of the Sex Pistols.
"There was a little bit of anarchy and a little bit of street happening, but what I did is interpreted it in a very elegant, sophisticated way,' she said in an earlier interview.
"You'll see little elements of that but it's in a very dressed up kind of manner."
Newport-Mimran put strong, regal colours like cobalt blue and grape-purple to use in pleated short-sleeved vogue dresses and venetian coats, while twill coats alternated between traditional buttons and flashy gold zipper detailing.
Big, black neck bows added bold flourish to white collared shirts, and an eye-popping purple and teal tartan plaid surfaced in suited separates like a blazer and skirt pairing and form-fitting slim-cut pants, while dresses and skirts featured flirty, knee-length, slightly flared hemlines.
RUDSAK: Opposites attract in the Montreal-based label's show dubbed "Beauty and the Beast," a concept illustrating that career women can be both classy and brassy and loud.
"In the sense that among your own beauty you have a beast inside of you that you could be very wild in the clothing sense, so everything we've done is layered look," said Evik Asatoorian, designer and founder of the 14-year old label.
Rudsak presented an assembly of monochromatic pieces dominated by a colour palette of classic brown and black in sexy, dramatic filled leather coats and down-filled nylon jackets while also making way for more subtle tones like grey, pistol and ivory, contrasting matte and shiny looks.
Fitting secondary pieces under garments are contrasted with layered outerwear to create volume on top.
Wool coats are accented with leather trims, like reinforced elbow patches.
While bag size remains big, it's modernized with lots of details like locks and zippers "to make it less overpowering," Asatoorian said.
"Corner Gas" star Tara Spencer-Nairn, "Canadian Idol" winner Eva Avila, singer Kyle Riabko and "Idol" judges Farley Flex and Jake Gold were among the style watchers in attendance.
"I like the lines and the colours. Just really, really slick,' Flex said backstage of the collection.
Paul Hardy: Peach, nude and rose tones in bustiers and corsets contrasted with form-fitting dresses and skirt pairings in the Calgary-based designer's sensual fall collection.
The use of brocade in separates adds delicate texture, as did large bold, feathered floral embellishments on tops and skirts.
A short-cut peach creation featured a sexy, flirty "birdie shift" with feather fringe.
Nada Yousif: A contemporary '50s silhouette was the inspiration for the Toronto designer's latest offerings.
Skirts were fuller, rounder, shorter with funky and bold patterns, while hemlines on strapless creations and sleeveless numbers are short and flirty, like an aubergine flared knee-length dress with pink bow and striping around the hem, to multi-coloured creations boasting teal, yellow and pink.
Matte-coloured turtlenecks in chocolate brown are starkly contrasted with overlay vests in rich purple and mustard yellow tones, while elaborate gold jacquard embellished print adds a rich texture and dimension to a pocketed mini dress.
"I love the '50s. I think it's super feminine and really sexy and I think it complements almost every body type," Yousif said in an earlier interview. "If you have big hips, the big skirts will cover that, and if you are a little bit thicker it will make your waist look smaller. I just think it's the perfect fit for any size."
Zoran Dobric: The Toronto-based designer returned to his roots for inspiration for his latest works, citing his childhood as a main inspiration for his fall collection.
It was triggered by a return visit to his native Serbia last year, with the clothes crafted both in the European country as well as Canada.
As a result, Dobric described the pieces as having a vintage look.
"There's some '20s inspired silhouettes with fit dresses and dropped waists," he said in an earlier interview.
A silk satin dress is accentuated by dramatic digitally printed artwork encircling the neckline and hemline and saturated in eggplant, black and white, among the prints all either done by hand or digitally processed by Dobric.
Lush silks, velvets and twills take the form of fitted cardigans and blazers, while the collection boasts a rich colour palette of ice blues, lime and emerald greens accenting customized scarves and blending together in wave-patterned dresses.
TATSUAKI: Dan Liu has been in the fashion game for more than a decade, but the designer behind Tatsuaki has not presented a collection in Toronto for the last five seasons, focusing his efforts on Tokyo.
In his fall collection, "The New Me," Liu shows he's shifted gears from knitwear couture to full clothing lines.
A white short-sleeved with pleated bodice offers a playful feel, as does a suspender bubble skirt in creamy beige with shimmery straps.
Sparkly silver applique details like an oversized safety pin on sheer black turtleneck sweater paired with black shorts with a bow accent add a girlish touch.
Some models blew kisses and made exaggerated make-believe gun poses to photographers, heightening the camp and kitsch level of frivolity to the show.
Kendra Francis was the last of the five featured designers from the design competition series "Project Runway Canada" to show their works at Fashion Week, featuring an installation of 15 looks vignette-style, showcasing an edited collection of cocktail dresses.
"The mood this season, it's very strong, it's very dark. It's mostly black, silvers and greys," she said in an earlier interview. "There's a mood of strength in the structure of some of the pieces. They're very fitted to the woman's shape, but ... because of the colour palette there is a softness with chiffons and lots of draping and flowing pieces."
Dutch-based label GSUS also presented their fall collection Thursday.
Fashion Week concludes Saturday.
Just like the previous Fashion Week last October, designer power couple Joseph Mimran and Kimberley Newport-Mimran bookended the week with their collections.
While Mimran's Joe Fresh Style line evoked equestrian, Newport-Mimran, the creative force behind Pink Tartan, forges an altogether different path towards the rock club rather than the races with her collection of punk-inspired pieces shown Thursday.
Pink Tartan: Punk goes pristine with the latest offerings from Kimberley Newport-Mimran who was inspired by the movement in 1970s London and the style of the Sex Pistols.
"There was a little bit of anarchy and a little bit of street happening, but what I did is interpreted it in a very elegant, sophisticated way,' she said in an earlier interview.
"You'll see little elements of that but it's in a very dressed up kind of manner."
Newport-Mimran put strong, regal colours like cobalt blue and grape-purple to use in pleated short-sleeved vogue dresses and venetian coats, while twill coats alternated between traditional buttons and flashy gold zipper detailing.
Big, black neck bows added bold flourish to white collared shirts, and an eye-popping purple and teal tartan plaid surfaced in suited separates like a blazer and skirt pairing and form-fitting slim-cut pants, while dresses and skirts featured flirty, knee-length, slightly flared hemlines.
RUDSAK: Opposites attract in the Montreal-based label's show dubbed "Beauty and the Beast," a concept illustrating that career women can be both classy and brassy and loud.
"In the sense that among your own beauty you have a beast inside of you that you could be very wild in the clothing sense, so everything we've done is layered look," said Evik Asatoorian, designer and founder of the 14-year old label.
Rudsak presented an assembly of monochromatic pieces dominated by a colour palette of classic brown and black in sexy, dramatic filled leather coats and down-filled nylon jackets while also making way for more subtle tones like grey, pistol and ivory, contrasting matte and shiny looks.
Fitting secondary pieces under garments are contrasted with layered outerwear to create volume on top.
Wool coats are accented with leather trims, like reinforced elbow patches.
While bag size remains big, it's modernized with lots of details like locks and zippers "to make it less overpowering," Asatoorian said.
"Corner Gas" star Tara Spencer-Nairn, "Canadian Idol" winner Eva Avila, singer Kyle Riabko and "Idol" judges Farley Flex and Jake Gold were among the style watchers in attendance.
"I like the lines and the colours. Just really, really slick,' Flex said backstage of the collection.
Paul Hardy: Peach, nude and rose tones in bustiers and corsets contrasted with form-fitting dresses and skirt pairings in the Calgary-based designer's sensual fall collection.
The use of brocade in separates adds delicate texture, as did large bold, feathered floral embellishments on tops and skirts.
A short-cut peach creation featured a sexy, flirty "birdie shift" with feather fringe.
Nada Yousif: A contemporary '50s silhouette was the inspiration for the Toronto designer's latest offerings.
Skirts were fuller, rounder, shorter with funky and bold patterns, while hemlines on strapless creations and sleeveless numbers are short and flirty, like an aubergine flared knee-length dress with pink bow and striping around the hem, to multi-coloured creations boasting teal, yellow and pink.
Matte-coloured turtlenecks in chocolate brown are starkly contrasted with overlay vests in rich purple and mustard yellow tones, while elaborate gold jacquard embellished print adds a rich texture and dimension to a pocketed mini dress.
"I love the '50s. I think it's super feminine and really sexy and I think it complements almost every body type," Yousif said in an earlier interview. "If you have big hips, the big skirts will cover that, and if you are a little bit thicker it will make your waist look smaller. I just think it's the perfect fit for any size."
Zoran Dobric: The Toronto-based designer returned to his roots for inspiration for his latest works, citing his childhood as a main inspiration for his fall collection.
It was triggered by a return visit to his native Serbia last year, with the clothes crafted both in the European country as well as Canada.
As a result, Dobric described the pieces as having a vintage look.
"There's some '20s inspired silhouettes with fit dresses and dropped waists," he said in an earlier interview.
A silk satin dress is accentuated by dramatic digitally printed artwork encircling the neckline and hemline and saturated in eggplant, black and white, among the prints all either done by hand or digitally processed by Dobric.
Lush silks, velvets and twills take the form of fitted cardigans and blazers, while the collection boasts a rich colour palette of ice blues, lime and emerald greens accenting customized scarves and blending together in wave-patterned dresses.
TATSUAKI: Dan Liu has been in the fashion game for more than a decade, but the designer behind Tatsuaki has not presented a collection in Toronto for the last five seasons, focusing his efforts on Tokyo.
In his fall collection, "The New Me," Liu shows he's shifted gears from knitwear couture to full clothing lines.
A white short-sleeved with pleated bodice offers a playful feel, as does a suspender bubble skirt in creamy beige with shimmery straps.
Sparkly silver applique details like an oversized safety pin on sheer black turtleneck sweater paired with black shorts with a bow accent add a girlish touch.
Some models blew kisses and made exaggerated make-believe gun poses to photographers, heightening the camp and kitsch level of frivolity to the show.
Kendra Francis was the last of the five featured designers from the design competition series "Project Runway Canada" to show their works at Fashion Week, featuring an installation of 15 looks vignette-style, showcasing an edited collection of cocktail dresses.
"The mood this season, it's very strong, it's very dark. It's mostly black, silvers and greys," she said in an earlier interview. "There's a mood of strength in the structure of some of the pieces. They're very fitted to the woman's shape, but ... because of the colour palette there is a softness with chiffons and lots of draping and flowing pieces."
Dutch-based label GSUS also presented their fall collection Thursday.
Fashion Week concludes Saturday.
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