Retailers warm up to plus-size clientele

With an increasing number of men and women seeking clothing considered large by Japanese standards, a number of clothing retailers are beginning to carry plus sizes. Not surprisingly, it is a welcome turn of events, allowing shoppers to find outfits in retail outlets, online and in catalogs.

Marui department stores, which cater toward younger customers searching for brand names, carries plus-sizes from a variety of well-known brands--as well as its own brand, ru--under the banner of OI (read as Marui) Model. The shop can be found at 19 of the 22 Marui branches mainly in the metropolitan area and Kanto region. The department carries everything from casual wear to suits, dresses and even large-size shoes.

"Our plus-size clothing used to take up only a small portion of our sales floor," says Mika Tominaga, merchandising manager for Marui. "But we had a growing number of calls from customers wanting bigger sizes, so we set up OI Model in 1999. We have slowly expanded our range of sizes and products, and now carry up to Size 23."

In the ru line, Size 23 is equivalent to a bust of 109 centimeters, waist of 89 centimeters and hip size of 113 centimeters. Tominaga said the most common sizes dealt with at Marui are 13, 17 and 21. Size 17 is a bust of 97 centimeters, waist of 77 centimeters and hip size of 104 centimeters.

"Plus-size customers often find it frustrating that large clothing is made without much consideration for trends. But we try to offer fashionable, reasonably priced items from as many brands as we can," Tominaga said. The 24 brands mostly deal with regular sizes.

Marui regularly meets with customers when making new products.

"For example, we introduced large-sized tights in eight different colors when the item was in fashion last winter. They were hugely successful as plus size women had virtually been unable to find any color but black when looking for tights in their size," Tominaga said.

Marui also handles trendy sandals and wedge-soled shoes in sizes up to 26.5, as well as fashion rings in large sizes.

Marui's store in Kita-Senju, Tokyo, has the largest selection of large-size clothes, while the most fashion-oriented floor presentation is available at Marui in the Yurakucho ITOCiA complex near JR Yurakucho Station in Tokyo, she said. Many of the items handled at shops also are available on the Net and catalog.

Mail-order firm Dinos offers its own products--under the names Cara and Dama--online. It also runs a bricks-and-mortar store handling the two lines in Daiba, Tokyo.

Dinos spokeswoman Maiko Ueki says Cara and Dama were not originally intended for large-sized women. The company began making the larger sizes, designed with trend and quality in mind, in response from a number of customer requests. Ueki said the retail outlet is helpful because it allows customers to try on products before buying them. Visitors to the store also can place an order through the catalog.

Cara clothes, designed for women in their 30s and 40s, and Dama, for women in their 50s, are available in sizes 7-15, with formal attire ranging 5-19. A Size 15 Dama coat is appropriate for a 109-centimeter bust.

"When designing large-sized clothing, we have to make special arrangements. With trousers, for example, we use special designs for the leg holes to prevent chafing," Ueki said.

Eddie Bauer similarly combines three methods of merchandising. The U.S. brand has been around since 1920, when Eddie Bauer, an outdoor enthusiast, began selling tennis items in Seattle. Today, the Eddie Bauer range has expanded to include casual wear, shoes and accessories, such as bags and hats for both men and women.

"In Japan, customers can find our products at 70 outlets, in catalogs and online, where we have a wide range of sizes," said Kazuaki Inukai, general manager of Eddie Bauer Japan's brand marketing department.

More than 95 percent of men's tops are available in Japanese sizes, ranging from XS to XL for shirts, while more than 80 percent of the pants and shorts are available in sizes from 29 to 40 inches [74 centimeters to 102 centimeters]. Chinos are available in lengths of 28-34 inches, while other trousers are limited to either 30 or 32.

A man's extra large shirt is designed for men with a chest size of 104 to 112 centimeters.

As for women's tops, more than 85 percent of the Eddie Bauer line are available in the same size range, with XL designed for women with a bust of 94 to 102 centimeters. More than 85 percent of the retailer's women's bottoms are available in sizes up to P10, or a waist of 73 centimeters and hip size of 99 centimeters.

"The products we carry at our retail outlets are mostly made with the Japanese customer in mind. But you can find more U.S. imports in larger sizes at our online store or our catalogue," he said.

Meanwhile Hiromichi Senda, from Sakazen, which mainly handles men's fashion, touts Sakazen's B&T Club's wide range of sizes regularly available at the store.

At the Bakurocho, Tokyo, branch, one of Sakazen's 22 outlets, three of the eight floors are dedicated to plus-size items, including T-shirts, jeans, suits and underwear.

Shirts start at 3L, or a neck size of 44 centimeters and chest size of 136 centimeters, and run as high as to 8L, a 57-centimeter neck size and 162-centimeter chest size. There are different size variations for tall men, with neck sizes available up to 46 centimeters and heights of up to 205 centimeters.

As for T-shirts, the store carries sports brands such as Champion and Hang Ten up to 5L. Cargo pants are available up to a waist of X4, or 125 to 140 centimeters, while Edwin jeans come in sizes up to 46 inches.

Sakazen recently introduced its specially priced "One Pound Suit" package, which comes with three pairs of trousers and a jacket.

Senda explained the set was introduced after complaints from large-sized men, who often find their trousers have become unwearable during the summer. "As the name suggests, the suit is very light. The jacket weights only one pound, or 454 grams, which has proved really popular with larger men."

Although these items also can be found on the Net and in their catalog, Senda recommends visiting the store, in part because new items are regularly introduced and customers can actually try them on in front of a mirror.

"We also have responded to a desire for quality and to our non-Japanese clientele by introducing order-made suits that use fine Italian materials," Senda said. "Here, you will always be able to find something you like and can wear."