Israeli cuisine rocks at Thornhill eatery

Tag : Mashed Potatoes With Roasted Garlic


First impressions: Located in a strip mall at the edge of Thornhill, this place isfilled with loyal clientele every day of the week. Inside, there'sa bustling and surprisingly modern mocha-hued dining room, and thepatio, while overlooking an intersection and jammed against aparking lot, is nonetheless a relaxing place to get some summer airand ruminate on just how hard it will be to finish off the mammothportions.
On the plate: An Israeli restaurant with Middle Eastern influences and a dash ofNorth American thrown in for good measure, there's something foreveryone here, but the real draw is the meat. Shawarma is shavedoff as chicken, lamb, or veal; the first two are also available askebabs, along with filet mignon and salmon; there's rainbow trout,rib eye steak, schnitzel. Vegetarians can opt for falafel, dips,salads and the like.
Second Helpings: The kefka kebob, at $11.99, is hearty and flavourful. Three plumpbeef and lamb sausages, seasoned with garlic and parsley, areserved with a side (we recommend the creamy, garlic, red-skinnedmashed potatoes or battered French fries as opposed to rice orgasp! steamed vegetables) and a side salad that could be a lightdinner unto itself. There's got to be at least two meals in there,if one adheres to Canada's Food Guide.
The lamb burger ($9.99), ever-so-slightly pink and juicy, is spicedsimilarly and served with grilled eggplant, red onion, and a nicespring mix. It's a shame the generic sesame bun couldn't have beena fresh challah (egg bread) one instead.
The chicken breast kebob ($13.99) is a good but not great choicefor less adventurous eaters, but it makes for a nice salad orsandwich topping the next day. And the homemade babaganoush, orroasted eggplant dip ($4.99), expertly melds smoky and sweetflavours.
Take a pass: The rubbery grilled tiger shrimp kebob is, at $21.99, hardly worthchoosing over the supremely better, and cheaper, skewered meats.Stay away from the Greek salad, a mess of iceberg lettuce,freezer-burnt feta and, for some reason, hard-boiled egg.
At your service: On our first visit, we sit outside on the patio, where we waitabout 15 minutes to get drinks and menus from our server. Butappetizers come ridiculously fast and if it takes a while to clearplates, who cares? We're too busy expanding our stomachs to notice.The next time we sit inside and the service could not be speedier;we're given water, menus and appetizers in less than five minutes.It's almost too fast, but who are we to complain? The black-clad,mostly Israeli wait staff are relaxed and efficient, and have a waywith fussy customers.
Extras: All the appetizers we try are standouts. The moist, slightlycurry-flavoured chicken shawarma on hummus ($9.99) makes a greatsharing plate; use the complimentary fresh pita and pickles fordipping. Two large latkes (potato pancakes) are crisp and pipinghot, and served with a slab of lox (smoked salmon) and sour creamfor $8.99. For dessert, we try homemade tiramisu ($6.99). The creamcheese mousse paired with a sharp coffee cake makes a great sweetto share. And the "lemonana" blended drinks ($3.99)combine lemonade, ice, and chopped mint to tart perfection. Shotsof vodka are not included, but highly recommended.
Price range: Starters are $4.99 to $10.99. Entrées run $8.99 to $22.99.
Bottom line: For those who like Middle Eastern food, or who want to try someIsraeli specialties, it's hard to make a bad choice here. With gooddips, juicy meats, fresh pita and salads, the only problem isdeciding what to have and fitting it all in your belly.