Ovi\'s offers fresh, affordable fare in a friendly setting

Tag : Mashed Potatoes With Roasted Garlic

Thanks to my piano tuner, a musician and motorcycle-ridingseptuagenarian from Hanover Park, I have discovered a gem of alittle pub that's friendly, affordable and comfortable.
Owned by Ovi and Maria Catanescu, the eponymous eatery opened inDecember at the bustling corner of Route 59 and Stearns Road, asmart location for attracting those weary of fast-food chains.
With just 100 seats, divided among high tops, standard tables andthe solid oak bar, the interior is cozy and warmly finished withmustard-colored walls, beaming wood floors and colorful,Tiffany-style light fixtures. On a sunny, summer evening theinterior is bright and welcoming, a mood reflected in the staff.
Among the guests this night are a group of women out for dinner anda cocktail and a family with young children. Three large plasma TVsoffer distraction for those who need it, but the noise level isconversation friendly.
The menu is straightforward American pub food channeled through theRomanian-born owners. Fresh ingredients predominate amongappetizers, soups and salads, burgers, pizza, sandwiches andentrees.
The top of the line is a $19.99 surf and turf of filet mignon andshrimp. But a number of entrees hover right around $10 and $11, andall entrees and sandwiches come with sides, a good value for yourdining dollars.
The $4.99 children's menu includes homey favorites such as grilledcheese and mac and cheese.
More than a dozen appetizers are available, so we pushed the "easy"button and ordered the sampler plate. This well-made assortmentcomes with three each of bruschetta, deep-fried mozzarella wedgeswith housemade marinara sauce and wings with hot sauce, and anorder of spicy onion "leaves," segments of onion rings battered anddeep fried, served with Cajun mayo.
The fried items were hot and crisp and the bruschetta tasted freshas a farmers market. This is fun for two or three people.
Entrees cover land and sea with pan-seared salmon, Cajun-spicedtilapia, filet mignon, New York strip steak, chicken and pastadishes.
For a sure thing try the slow-roasted ribs (half or full order),cooked for six hours at low temperature so they fall off the bone.We liked the "chef's gourmet sauce," a spicy, heartier blend, butyou can ask for "sweet sauce," which is Sweet Baby Ray's.
Crunchy cole slaw and puffy, crisp waffle fries fill out the plate.
Grilled Florence chicken breast is tender and very juicy under athick layer of melted fresh mozzarella. Finely diced bruschettatomatoes on top add some zip.
I opted for the simply prepared black beans, a welcome change fromtypical sides.
Sandwiches are typically multilayered, Dagwood-style creations. TheSanta Fe chicken wrap pulls together black beans, corn, pico degallo, spicy queso cheese and chipotle mayo. The chicken bleufeatures grilled mushrooms, Swiss and blue cheese, lettuce andtomato.
We opted for the simpler Italian beef, thinly sliced and piled highon a toasted French roll, served with a cup of richly flavored jus.You can stack it higher with sausage or mozzarella for a smallup-charge. House-made garlic mashed potatoes are fluffy and havejust enough pungent garlic flavor.
Salads include hearty options such as steak with blue cheese andmushrooms or barbecued chicken with bacon and Colby-jack cheeseunder smoked chipotle dressing.
Two desserts have house-made elements: the brownies with ice creamand Maria Catanescu's "adults only" ice cream sauce made with GrandMarnier, port wine and peach schnapps.
Though the brownies were hot and chocolaty they had an unpleasantlycrisp exterior, like they had been fried. We skipped the grownupice cream sauce and dug into a slice of Eli's plain cheesecakegarnished with caramel sauce. A little more sauce and this will begood.
Service was friendly and efficient; Maria Catanescu stopped by allthe tables to chat and make everyone feel welcome.
My piano tuner wasn't there, but if you stop by and see a fellow ona purple, three-wheeled motorcycle, it's probably him. Tell him"thanks" from me.
• Restaurant reviews are based on one anonymous visit. Our aimis to describe the overall dining experience while guiding thereader toward the menu's strengths. The Daily Herald does notpublish reviews of restaurants it cannot recommend.
Ovi's Pub
Location : 1075 Stearns Road, Bartlett; (630) 289-2333; ovispub.com
Cuisine : American bar food Setting: Cozy, neighborhood pub Price range:Appetizers $3.99 to $12.99; soups and salads $2.50 to $8.99;sandwiches and entrees $7.75 to $19.99.
Hours : 11 a.m. to 1 a.m. Sunday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to 2 a.m.Friday and Saturday Accepts: Major credit cards; no reservationsFridays and Saturdays