Hard work pays off superbly for Branzino
[2008-7-29]
Tag : toppings for baked potato
Consider the halibut, for instance. The delicate fish is baked inparchment, its tender white flesh a blank canvas for the beautifulbounty of summer: tomatoes, slender beans and fresh herbs finishedin a shower of lemon juice. Now, it's one thing to make a fishtaste great under the showy amber hue that comes from searing it,but it's a huge accomplishment to take this more restrainedapproach and make it work so well. Cooked this way, halibut's anentirely different beast: so buttery soft, so succulent.
The restaurant is named for a Mediterranean sea bass that's the"it" fish on menus around the world, though it's only beginning tocatch on around here. But it doesn't exactly fit in with the steadydrumbeat of "eat local." Among Branzino's other offbeat offeringsfrom the sea is the humble mackerel; here the fishy fish is servedalongside an oregano aioli, pickled veggies and crostini. (If youlike sardines, you'll likely love mackerel.)
Chef Ashley Merriman's menu has an Italian accent, from theantipasti (which include a sashimilike treatment of sockeye salmon)to the excellent pasta, hand-rolled daily in-house (except thelinguine, which is from Rustichella d'Abruzzo). This focus makessense when you learn owner Peter Lamb launched the beloved IlBistro more than 25 years ago, back when Pike Place Market wasn'tthe most desirable address.
Consider the halibut, for instance. The delicate fish is baked inparchment, its tender white flesh a blank canvas for the beautifulbounty of summer: tomatoes, slender beans and fresh herbs finishedin a shower of lemon juice. Now, it's one thing to make a fishtaste great under the showy amber hue that comes from searing it,but it's a huge accomplishment to take this more restrainedapproach and make it work so well. Cooked this way, halibut's anentirely different beast: so buttery soft, so succulent.
The restaurant is named for a Mediterranean sea bass that's the"it" fish on menus around the world, though it's only beginning tocatch on around here. But it doesn't exactly fit in with the steadydrumbeat of "eat local." Among Branzino's other offbeat offeringsfrom the sea is the humble mackerel; here the fishy fish is servedalongside an oregano aioli, pickled veggies and crostini. (If youlike sardines, you'll likely love mackerel.)
Chef Ashley Merriman's menu has an Italian accent, from theantipasti (which include a sashimilike treatment of sockeye salmon)to the excellent pasta, hand-rolled daily in-house (except thelinguine, which is from Rustichella d'Abruzzo). This focus makessense when you learn owner Peter Lamb launched the beloved IlBistro more than 25 years ago, back when Pike Place Market wasn'tthe most desirable address.
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