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Sala Thai busy but a little bland

[2008-7-29]

Tag : peapods

A friend lives near the corner of Fair Oaks and Milwaukee streets,and we watched for months as workers transformed a Mexican grocerystore across the street into a small Thai restaurant. It's in anunlikely restaurant location, next to the Fair Oaks Diner, and farfrom any other restaurants or businesses, other than the Citgo gasstation that anchors the corner. When we found out it was going to be a Thai place, we were curioushow it would compete with the unequaled Lao Laan-Xang, which hastwo locations on Madison's near east side.

Apparently, it is not only holding its own, but is thriving sinceit opened in early June. Thongpone "Pone" Vanphravong, who owns the restaurant with herhusband, Sisavahn "Pane" Vanphravong, said she is "mobbed" everyday. "It's been great," she said. The Vanphravongs owned Bahn Thai on Williamson Street from 1993until 2003, and then the Corner Store, also on Williamson Street,from 2005 until recently.

Sala Thai will never take the place of Lao Laan-Xang for me. Firstof all, its pad Thai ($7.50) is lackluster, reminiscent of BahnThai's, which I try to avoid. It could have used more bean sprouts,for one. I squeezed some lime over it to give it an extra boost. Itcomes with either chicken, tofu or shrimp. Stay away from thestiff, dry tofu squares. They don't add much. Its tom kha soup ($5.95) is also pretty pedestrian. Not nearly inthe same league as Bahn Thai's -- or the Weary Traveler's, for thatmatter. Mushrooms float at the top of the coconut milk soup and itcomes loaded with choice chunks of chicken (unless you order itwith tofu).

The Vietnamese-style shrimp spring rolls ($3.95 for two) didn'tstand out, and were the usual lettuce, cucumber, carrot, vermicellinoodles and shrimp wrapped with mint and basil. One of the rollscame disassembled.

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