A Good Appetite: Snail butter, please hold the snails
[2008-7-21]
Tag : purple white garlic
Given this predilection, it's no surprise that recently, afterpicking up squid at the fish store, I decided to buy ingredientsfor snail butter, too. After all, with a chewy-tender texture andrelatively bland flavor, squid remind me of the snails of the sea,but with a saline rather than earthy taste.
Although I could have sautéed the squid directly in the butteras I do with shrimp, the weather was balmy and I was in the mood togrill.
While the grill heated, I made the snail butter, combining garlic,shallot, lots of parsley and butter in the food processor. Butbecause I hadn't softened the butter enough, the mixture remainedin chunks instead of melding.
Remembering that many recipes also call for a few drops of liquid,like white wine, both for flavor and to help everything emulsify, Idecided to dribble in some Pernod from the bottle that lives on ourcounter in summer, waiting for the aperitif hour. It added a full,licorice note that was perfect with the green flavor of theparsley.
Butter completed, I debated melting some and tossing it with thesquid before grilling, to keep their floppy bodies from sticking tothe grate. But fearing a grease fire, I ended up tossing the squidwith just a touch of olive oil. When both the bodies and tentacleswere lightly golden in spots, I added them to a bowl with a dollopof pea-green snail butter.
Expecting garlicky squid nirvana, I popped a mound of purpletentacles into my mouth.
Strangely, instead of packing the garlic-and-herb wallop Iexpected, the flavors were weak, even though the snail buttertasted perfectly spunky when I spread it on grilled bread.
I added another spoonful of butter to the squid anyway, hoping morewould help. It didn't. Neither did more salt nor another splash ofPernod. By this time, the squid were doused in enough snail butterto leave a pool at the bottom of the bowl, which even to me seemedunnecessarily decadent.
As I licked my fingers, I thought about another of my favoritepungent parsley and garlic combinations: gremolata. Sprinkled rawon top of osso buco, it gives a jolt of piquancy to the rich andfatty meat.
If I chopped up more garlic, parsley and shallot, and sprinkledthat on top of the squid, would it help focus and intensify all thefleeting nuances?
Eureka, it did, complementing the ocean flavor of the squid andunderscoring the butter itself. My husband and I gobbled every lasttentacle, then sopped up the butter in the bottom of the bowl. Itwas better than snails, even without the 5 centimes cash back.
Given this predilection, it's no surprise that recently, afterpicking up squid at the fish store, I decided to buy ingredientsfor snail butter, too. After all, with a chewy-tender texture andrelatively bland flavor, squid remind me of the snails of the sea,but with a saline rather than earthy taste.
Although I could have sautéed the squid directly in the butteras I do with shrimp, the weather was balmy and I was in the mood togrill.
While the grill heated, I made the snail butter, combining garlic,shallot, lots of parsley and butter in the food processor. Butbecause I hadn't softened the butter enough, the mixture remainedin chunks instead of melding.
Remembering that many recipes also call for a few drops of liquid,like white wine, both for flavor and to help everything emulsify, Idecided to dribble in some Pernod from the bottle that lives on ourcounter in summer, waiting for the aperitif hour. It added a full,licorice note that was perfect with the green flavor of theparsley.
Butter completed, I debated melting some and tossing it with thesquid before grilling, to keep their floppy bodies from sticking tothe grate. But fearing a grease fire, I ended up tossing the squidwith just a touch of olive oil. When both the bodies and tentacleswere lightly golden in spots, I added them to a bowl with a dollopof pea-green snail butter.
Expecting garlicky squid nirvana, I popped a mound of purpletentacles into my mouth.
Strangely, instead of packing the garlic-and-herb wallop Iexpected, the flavors were weak, even though the snail buttertasted perfectly spunky when I spread it on grilled bread.
I added another spoonful of butter to the squid anyway, hoping morewould help. It didn't. Neither did more salt nor another splash ofPernod. By this time, the squid were doused in enough snail butterto leave a pool at the bottom of the bowl, which even to me seemedunnecessarily decadent.
As I licked my fingers, I thought about another of my favoritepungent parsley and garlic combinations: gremolata. Sprinkled rawon top of osso buco, it gives a jolt of piquancy to the rich andfatty meat.
If I chopped up more garlic, parsley and shallot, and sprinkledthat on top of the squid, would it help focus and intensify all thefleeting nuances?
Eureka, it did, complementing the ocean flavor of the squid andunderscoring the butter itself. My husband and I gobbled every lasttentacle, then sopped up the butter in the bottom of the bowl. Itwas better than snails, even without the 5 centimes cash back.
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