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Mastering Linguine with Shrimp and Garlic

http://www.dailynewstribune.com/lifestyle/columnis [2008-7-10]

Tag : iqf pepper

Who wouldn't enjoy pasta tossed with plump juicy shrimp, garlic,lemon and parsley? The reality, however, is the shrimp is easilyovercooked and tough, the pasta can be starchy, and the overalldish bland and totally forgettable. We also discovered thatdelivering just the right amount of garlic flavor is a substantialculinary challenge.

For 1 pound of pasta, we used 1 pound of shrimp and favored U25 orextra large shrimp for this dish. (U25 indicates there is between21 and 25 shrimp per one pound. We usually buy IQF individuallyquick frozen shrimp. Make sure there are no other ingredientslisted on the side of the bag for best flavor and texture.)

We start with raw shrimp, peeled and deveined, and the tail lefton. We sauteed the shrimp until just done, assembling the rest ofthe dish, and then tossing them back in to heat through just beforeserving. We quickly cooked the shrimp over medium-high heat usingolive oil because butter easily burns and turns bitter.

We also tested shrimp that were seasoned before cooking. As itturned out, the seasoned shrimp were vastly better and moreflavorful. We cooked the shrimp until brightly colored with just atouch of brown, about 60 to 90 seconds per side. This methodresulted in shrimp that were firm, plump and moist.

Garlic flavor is the backbone of this dish. Seemingly a simpletask, we found it surprisingly tricky to obtain just the rightamount of flavor without either raw or burnt undertones. Then weremembered an article from Cooks Illustrated magazine, fromMarch/April 2001, titled "Pasta with Garlic and Oil," inwhich most of the garlic is slowly sauteed until barely browned,leaving it sweet and mellow. Then a small amount of raw garlic isadded at the finish of the dish to punch up the flavor. Combined,they make a balanced, complex garlic statement that we loved. Using3 tablespoons of pressed garlic, we slowly sauteed 2 tablespoonsplus 1 teaspoon and added the remaining 2 teaspoons toward the endof the recipe.

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