Frank's Waterside offers fine food and a superb view
http://www.nj.com/living/ledger/index.ssf?/base/li [2008-7-7]
Tag : celery root
A sparkling view of the Manhattan skyline gives any New Jerseyrestaurant a head start in my book. The perspective from Frank's is particularly intriguing becauseit's different from what we've glimpsed at other establishments alittle farther down the Hudson River. While we couldn't spot thefamiliar beacon of the Empire State Building, our vantage pointenabled us to pick out Grant's Tomb and discover waterside aspectsof the city we had never before seen.
This restaurant is a favorite of politicians, we were told. Sen.Frank Lautenberg (D-N.J.) often drops in and plays the piano,according to manager Louis Busigo. A Sunday jazz brunch is also anattraction. (The restaurant is located at 7800 B River Road, NorthBergen, 201-861-0700, frankswaterside.com, ** 1/2)There's no doubt that this is an appealing place to pass the time,whether you're in the dining room, at the inviting bar or outsidesitting around one of the tables along the river's edge.
You definitely need something to sip while looking across thewater, and there are a good number of wines by the glass. Among thechoices are the Jacobs Creek Shiraz ($7), the Old Vines CrianzaTempranillo ($7) and the Lorraine Bracco Pinot Grigio ($9).
Descriptions with each listing offer some insight into what thewines are about. The comments on the Bracco, "A bouquet of flowersand rainwater on a rock in summer are the emotions provoked by thiswine," may be on the esoteric side, but more down-to-earthinformation is given with the Old Vines: "Ruby red in color, thefruit is balanced with a touch of vanilla. Recommended to accompanybeef and pork." The list of wines by the bottle has a number of selections for lessthan $35, and plenty more options for anyone who feels like doingsome spending. Half-bottles and large format bottles expand thepossibilities. The Frank's Cellars section includes the likes ofthe 2003 Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon ($104), or the Heitz CellarsBella Oaks Cabernet Sauvignon ($150).
We were pumped as soon as we sat down. The setting was just right,with eye-catching glass waterfall panels separating the bar and thedining room, sparked by signature red leather banquettes. The menu offered one interesting dish after another, whether it wasthe appetizer of beautifully seared scallops ($14), topped with adollop of caviar and chopped golden beets, or pomegranate-glazedorganic salmon ($28). The combinations often are interesting, suchas tuna tartare ($15) with truffled celery root and apple salad, orroast chicken ($26) enhanced by sweet pea spaetzle. Simplicity hasits place here, too, as with the creamless smooth asparagus soup($9) with morels and a hint of mint. The pasta makes either an intriguing appetizer or a main course.Hand-rolled strozzapretti ($11/$22) absorbs the essence of wildmushrooms and crème fraiche, another simple yet effectivedish.
A sparkling view of the Manhattan skyline gives any New Jerseyrestaurant a head start in my book. The perspective from Frank's is particularly intriguing becauseit's different from what we've glimpsed at other establishments alittle farther down the Hudson River. While we couldn't spot thefamiliar beacon of the Empire State Building, our vantage pointenabled us to pick out Grant's Tomb and discover waterside aspectsof the city we had never before seen.
This restaurant is a favorite of politicians, we were told. Sen.Frank Lautenberg (D-N.J.) often drops in and plays the piano,according to manager Louis Busigo. A Sunday jazz brunch is also anattraction. (The restaurant is located at 7800 B River Road, NorthBergen, 201-861-0700, frankswaterside.com, ** 1/2)There's no doubt that this is an appealing place to pass the time,whether you're in the dining room, at the inviting bar or outsidesitting around one of the tables along the river's edge.
You definitely need something to sip while looking across thewater, and there are a good number of wines by the glass. Among thechoices are the Jacobs Creek Shiraz ($7), the Old Vines CrianzaTempranillo ($7) and the Lorraine Bracco Pinot Grigio ($9).
Descriptions with each listing offer some insight into what thewines are about. The comments on the Bracco, "A bouquet of flowersand rainwater on a rock in summer are the emotions provoked by thiswine," may be on the esoteric side, but more down-to-earthinformation is given with the Old Vines: "Ruby red in color, thefruit is balanced with a touch of vanilla. Recommended to accompanybeef and pork." The list of wines by the bottle has a number of selections for lessthan $35, and plenty more options for anyone who feels like doingsome spending. Half-bottles and large format bottles expand thepossibilities. The Frank's Cellars section includes the likes ofthe 2003 Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon ($104), or the Heitz CellarsBella Oaks Cabernet Sauvignon ($150).
We were pumped as soon as we sat down. The setting was just right,with eye-catching glass waterfall panels separating the bar and thedining room, sparked by signature red leather banquettes. The menu offered one interesting dish after another, whether it wasthe appetizer of beautifully seared scallops ($14), topped with adollop of caviar and chopped golden beets, or pomegranate-glazedorganic salmon ($28). The combinations often are interesting, suchas tuna tartare ($15) with truffled celery root and apple salad, orroast chicken ($26) enhanced by sweet pea spaetzle. Simplicity hasits place here, too, as with the creamless smooth asparagus soup($9) with morels and a hint of mint. The pasta makes either an intriguing appetizer or a main course.Hand-rolled strozzapretti ($11/$22) absorbs the essence of wildmushrooms and crème fraiche, another simple yet effectivedish.
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