Broadway Bistro earns a rave
[2008-7-18]
Tag : white sesame seeds
As I pulled up to the Broadway Bistro, one of the newest spots onincreasingly trendy Broadway, my dining companion looked askance atthe enormous painting on the side of the building of a blackLabrador retriever holding a huge white star in its mouth that wasemblazoned with the word ‘sit.’ “What kind of place are you taking me to?” was thequestion.
Well, a very hip, very cool one as it turned out, with creativedishes from owner-chef Patrick Lowney, previously of the funkySalvation Cafe on that other Broadway — the one in Newport.Broadway Bistro’s menu is executed with panache by acrackerjack kitchen staff … obvious because we later learnedthat the night we dined had been one of the few that Lowney was notin the kitchen. The clientele mirrors the slightly bohemian crowd that ambled, orsometimes bicycled, by on a warm summer night. With only 32 tableseats, plus 8 more at the bar and several more on the sidewalk,Broadway Bistro is a cozy place that, in the Rhode Island parlance,is where La Prima Caffe used to be. There are polished wood floors,dark brown wainscoting, and walls that are painted a warmred-orange sunset shade and filled with pictures from another era.A pass-through space between the dining room and the small kitchenaffords a glimpse of the chefs hustling orders.
Open since January, Lowney says business has been expanding nicely,even beyond the many locals who congregate, thanks to good word ofmouth.
And why not? The menu may be small, but it offers an impressive range —watermelon soup, Thai beef salad, ribs & grits among theappetizer choices; a deconstructed pot pie, Baja fish tacos,seven-spice tuna, a lamb rack with house gnocchi, a duck leg saladwith duck-fat fries, local cod cakes, and risotto primavera amongthe entrees — with just about everything on land and seacovered in some way. Lowney says he changes the menu every few weeks (please don’ttake away any of the things we ordered and would love to eatagain!). The limited menu may be because the kitchen offers limitedspace to fix too many dishes, although I’d prefer to thinkthat this is a case of doing a few things really, really well.
As I pulled up to the Broadway Bistro, one of the newest spots onincreasingly trendy Broadway, my dining companion looked askance atthe enormous painting on the side of the building of a blackLabrador retriever holding a huge white star in its mouth that wasemblazoned with the word ‘sit.’ “What kind of place are you taking me to?” was thequestion.
Well, a very hip, very cool one as it turned out, with creativedishes from owner-chef Patrick Lowney, previously of the funkySalvation Cafe on that other Broadway — the one in Newport.Broadway Bistro’s menu is executed with panache by acrackerjack kitchen staff … obvious because we later learnedthat the night we dined had been one of the few that Lowney was notin the kitchen. The clientele mirrors the slightly bohemian crowd that ambled, orsometimes bicycled, by on a warm summer night. With only 32 tableseats, plus 8 more at the bar and several more on the sidewalk,Broadway Bistro is a cozy place that, in the Rhode Island parlance,is where La Prima Caffe used to be. There are polished wood floors,dark brown wainscoting, and walls that are painted a warmred-orange sunset shade and filled with pictures from another era.A pass-through space between the dining room and the small kitchenaffords a glimpse of the chefs hustling orders.
Open since January, Lowney says business has been expanding nicely,even beyond the many locals who congregate, thanks to good word ofmouth.
And why not? The menu may be small, but it offers an impressive range —watermelon soup, Thai beef salad, ribs & grits among theappetizer choices; a deconstructed pot pie, Baja fish tacos,seven-spice tuna, a lamb rack with house gnocchi, a duck leg saladwith duck-fat fries, local cod cakes, and risotto primavera amongthe entrees — with just about everything on land and seacovered in some way. Lowney says he changes the menu every few weeks (please don’ttake away any of the things we ordered and would love to eatagain!). The limited menu may be because the kitchen offers limitedspace to fix too many dishes, although I’d prefer to thinkthat this is a case of doing a few things really, really well.
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