Guide to sesame seeds

Whole seeds aren't the major way most of the world uses sesame (except in the United States, where, according to Sauce magazine, McDonald's buys more than a third of the import crop for its sesame seed buns). But most of the sesame seeds grown in places such as Mexico, India and China end up in a variety of sesame products.

Here's a guide to buying sesame seeds and some of the products made from them:

WHOLE SESAME SEEDS

In their natural state, sesame seeds have an edible hull that's usually a light brown color, but also comes in red, yellow and black. The hull is often removed because it can give the seeds a slightly bitter taste, but black seeds are generally sold unhulled.

In the U.S. most sesame seeds are sold hulled, and they're usually white or ivory in color. Many Asian markets sell toasted sesame seed, which is a light brown color.

Toasting brings out the nutty flavor of sesame seed, and you can easily toast the seeds yourself. Just heat the seeds in a dry skillet (not a nonstick one) over medium-high heat, stirring until the seeds are light brown. Remove the pan from the heat as soon as the seeds are toasted, watching carefully so they don't burn. You don't need to toast the seeds first when you're using them on breads or other baked goods, since they'll brown in the oven.

SESAME OIL

Sesame seeds have a high oil content, and the oil extracted from them is widely used for cooking and seasoning. Raw seeds yield a mild, colorless oil suitable for sauting and frying, while toasted seeds make a dark brown oil with a strong, nutty flavor.
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This dark oil is used in Asian cooking to season stir-fries and noodles and to flavor dipping sauces for dim sum. And with the recent popularity of fusion cuisine, sesame oil has found its way into a wider range of foods, from hors d'oeuvres and salad dressings to meat and vegetable dishes.

Use dark sesame oil sparingly, because it has an intense flavor. Some Asian markets carry black sesame oil, which is made from black sesame seeds and has an even stronger flavor. You can also buy dark sesame oil seasoned with chile peppers and other flavorings.

SESAME PASTE

Grinding sesame seeds produces a paste that's similar to peanut butter in both taste and texture (including the fact that the oil rises to the top after it has been on the shelf for a while). The best-known sesame paste is tahini, which is made from raw sesame seeds and is light brown in color. It's used in hummus and other Middle Eastern dishes.

Asian sesame paste is made from toasted sesame seeds. It's dark brown and has a stronger, nuttier flavor than tahini. Paste made from black sesame seeds is the strongest of all.